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<title lang=en>Laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed: Drifter measurements</title>
<creator>Castelle, Bruno</creator>
<creator>Michallet, Hervé</creator>
<creator>Marieu, Vincent</creator>
<creator>Leckler, F.</creator>
<creator>Dubarbier, Benjamin</creator>
<creator>Lambert, Adrien</creator>
<creator>Berni, Céline</creator>
<creator>Bonneton, Philippe</creator>
<creator>Barthélemy, Eric</creator>
<creator>Bouchette, Frédéric</creator>
<contributor>Environnements et Paléoenvironnements OCéaniques (EPOC) ; Observatoire aquitain des sciences de l'univers (OASU) ; Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - Université Sciences et Technologies - Bordeaux 1 - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - École pratique des hautes études (EPHE) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<contributor>Laboratoire des écoulements géophysiques et industriels (LEGI) ; Université de Grenoble-Alpes - Institut polytechnique de Grenoble - Grenoble Institute of Technology (Grenoble INP) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<contributor>Risques ; Géosciences Montpellier ; Université des Antilles et de la Guyane (UAG) - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Université de Montpellier (UM) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - Université des Antilles et de la Guyane (UAG) - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Université de Montpellier (UM) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<description>International audience</description>
<source>ISSN: 0148-0227</source>
<source>EISSN: 2156-2202</source>
<source>Journal of Geophysical Research</source>
<publisher>American Geophysical Union</publisher>
<identifier>hal-00602920</identifier>
<identifier>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602920</identifier>
<source>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602920</source>
<source>Journal of Geophysical Research, American Geophysical Union, 2010, 115, pp.C12008. 〈10.1029/2010JC006343〉</source>
<identifier>DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006343</identifier>
<relation>info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.1029/2010JC006343</relation>
<language>en</language>
<subject lang=ro>rip current</subject>
<subject>[PHYS.MECA.MEFL] Physics [physics]/Mechanics [physics]/Mechanics of the fluids [physics.class-ph]</subject>
<subject>[SPI.MECA.MEFL] Engineering Sciences [physics]/Mechanics [physics.med-ph]/Fluids mechanics [physics.class-ph]</subject>
<type>info:eu-repo/semantics/article</type>
<type>Journal articles</type>
<description lang=en>This study describes a laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed. Rip current characteristics over eight contrasting nature-like beach morphologies are investigated. The seabed varied from reasonably alongshore uniform to strongly alongshore nonuniform with crescentic patterns and bar-rip morphologies, representative of a full morphological down-state sequence. The same offshore shore-normal waves were generated by the wavemaker for the eight situations with the same mean water level to study the sensitivity of rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 30 to 60 min video run was used to track a large number of drifters released within the surf zone. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counterrotating cells and a relatively narrow offshore-directed jet varying from shore-normal to strongly skewed. Wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviations of flow intensity and direction provide high-resolution information on the spatial variability of rip current instabilities. Highly pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow is observed in the rip neck for well-developed bar-rip morphologies that turns into a weakly pulsating and highly directional variable rip current flow with decreasing beach alongshore nonuniformity. Proposing a definition of rip current intensity based on the rip current circulation geometry, rip current intensity was found to linearly increase with increasing measure of beach alongshore nonuniformity within both the low-energy and moderate-energy rip current regimes. To date, our laboratory experiment provides the first extensive quantitative rip current information during a full down-state sequence for a given wave condition.</description>
<date>2010</date>
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