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<datestamp>2018-01-11</datestamp>
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<title lang=en>WAVE TRANSFORMATION OVER THE OUANO REEF BARRIER, NEW CALEDONIA</title>
<creator>locatelli , fabien</creator>
<creator>Sous, Damien</creator>
<creator>Rey, Vincent</creator>
<creator>CHEVALIER, Cristele</creator>
<creator>Bouchette, Frederic</creator>
<creator>TOUBOUL, Julien</creator>
<creator>Devenon, Jean Luc</creator>
<contributor>Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie (MIO) ; Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD) - Aix Marseille Université (AMU) - Institut de recherche pour le développement [IRD] : UMR235 - Université de Toulon (UTLN) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<contributor>Géosciences Montpellier ; Université des Antilles et de la Guyane (UAG) - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Université de Montpellier (UM) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<description>International audience</description>
<source>Coastal Dynamics 2017</source>
<coverage>Helsingor, Denmark</coverage>
<identifier>hal-01562927</identifier>
<identifier>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562927</identifier>
<source>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562927</source>
<source>Coastal Dynamics 2017, Jun 2017, Helsingor, Denmark. Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2017</source>
<language>en</language>
<subject>[SDU.OCEAN] Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Ocean, Atmosphere</subject>
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<type>Conference papers</type>
<description lang=en>This communication reports on a field experiments carried out on the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The analysis is based on a cross-shore network of pressure sensors deployed across the reef flat and within the lagoon. Confirming existing observations, the measurements show the strong filtering role of the reef barrier on the incoming wave energy The swell energy is dissipated and transferred toward lower frequencies, including the so-called infragravity (IG) and very low frequency (VLF) waves. During energetic event (Hs=4.2m), IG and VLF significant wave heights on the reef flat are observed to reach 1.2 and 0.7m, respectively. A variety of long waves modes are observed on the reef, combining standing and progressive-dissipative modes. In any cases, the VLF and IG waves are much more developed over and close to the reef flat than further inside the lagoon.</description>
<date>2017-06-12</date>
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