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<title lang=en>Morphological Response of a Macrotidal Embayed Beach, Porsmilin, France</title>
<creator>Floc'h, France</creator>
<creator>Le Dantec, Nicolas</creator>
<creator>Lemos, Clara</creator>
<creator>Cancouët, Romain</creator>
<creator>Sous, Damien</creator>
<creator>Petitjean, Lise</creator>
<creator>Bouchette, Frédéric</creator>
<creator>Ardhuin, Fabrice</creator>
<creator>Suanez, Serge, </creator>
<creator>Delacourt, Christophe</creator>
<contributor>Domaines Océaniques (LDO) ; Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - Institut d'écologie et environnement - Observatoire des Sciences de l'Univers - Université de Brest (UBO) - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS)</contributor>
<contributor>Centre d'Etudes et d'Expertise sur les Risques, l'Environnement, la Mobilité et l'Aménagement (Cerema)</contributor>
<contributor>Littoral, Environnement, Télédétection, Géomatique (LETG - Brest) ; Université de Brest (UBO) - Université d'Angers (UA) - Université de Nantes (UN) - Université de Rennes 2 (UR2) - Institut Universitaire Européen de la Mer (IUEM) ; Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD) - Université de Brest (UBO) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS) - Université de Caen Normandie (UNICAEN) ; Normandie Université (NU) - Normandie Université (NU)</contributor>
<contributor>Institut méditerranéen d'océanologie (MIO) ; Institut de Recherche pour le Développement (IRD) - Aix Marseille Université (AMU) - Institut de recherche pour le développement [IRD] : UMR235 - Université de Toulon (UTLN) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<contributor>Géosciences Montpellier ; Université des Antilles et de la Guyane (UAG) - Institut national des sciences de l'Univers (INSU - CNRS) - Université de Montpellier (UM) - Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique (CNRS)</contributor>
<contributor>Laboratoire d'Océanographie Spatiale (LOS) ; Institut Français de Recherche pour l'Exploitation de la Mer (IFREMER)</contributor>
<description>International audience</description>
<source>ICS 2016 Sydney</source>
<coverage>Sydney, Australia</coverage>
<contributor>University of Sydney</contributor>
<contributor>Ana Vila-Concejo, Eleanor Bruce, David M. Kennedy, R. Jack McCarroll</contributor>
<publisher>Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc.</publisher>
<identifier>hal-01254465</identifier>
<identifier>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465</identifier>
<source>https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465</source>
<source>Ana Vila-Concejo, Eleanor Bruce, David M. Kennedy, R. Jack McCarroll. ICS 2016 Sydney, Mar 2016, Sydney, Australia. Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc., 75 SI (1), pp.258-262, 2016, Journal of Coastal Research (Proceedings of the 14th International Coastal Symposium). 〈10.2112/SI75-075.1〉</source>
<identifier>DOI : 10.2112/SI75-075.1</identifier>
<relation>info:eu-repo/semantics/altIdentifier/doi/10.2112/SI75-075.1</relation>
<language>en</language>
<subject lang=en> macrotidal beach</subject>
<subject lang=en>morphodynamics</subject>
<subject lang=en> slope</subject>
<subject lang=en> infragravity</subject>
<subject lang=en> embayed beach</subject>
<subject>[SDU.STU.GM] Sciences of the Universe [physics]/Earth Sciences/Geomorphology</subject>
<subject>[SDE] Environmental Sciences</subject>
<type>info:eu-repo/semantics/conferenceObject</type>
<type>Conference papers</type>
<description lang=en>Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neapspring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.</description>
<date>2016-03-06</date>
<contributor>Charles W. Finkl</contributor>
<contributor>ANR-10-LABX-0019/10-LABX-0019, LabexMER, LabexMER Marine Excellence Research: a changing ocean(2010)</contributor>
<contributor>ANR-10-CEPL-0001, COCORISCO, COnnaissance, COmpréhension et gestion des RIsques COtiers(2010)</contributor>
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