Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This communication reports on a field experiments carried out on the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The analysis is based on a cross-shore network of pressure sensors deployed across the reef flat and within the lagoon. Confirming existing observations, the measurements show the strong filtering role of the reef barrier on the incoming wave energy The swell energy is dissipated and transferred toward lower frequencies, including the so-called infragravity (IG) and very low frequency (VLF) waves. During energetic event (Hs=4.2m), IG and VLF significant wave heights on the reef flat are observed to reach 1.2 and 0.7m, respectively. A variety of long waves modes are observed on the reef, combining standing and progressive-dissipative modes. In any cases, the VLF and IG waves are much more developed over and close to the reef flat than further inside the lagoon.
Coastal Dynamics 2017
Helsingor, Denmark

hal-01562927
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562927

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
The present research work is a part of the KUNSHEN Franco-Taiwanese research project which aims at investigating the hydro/morphodynamics of barrier islands driven by typhoon events. This study focuses on the impact of the Talim tropical storm on the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier (Taiwan) in terms of water level rising and watertable overheight. In-situ measurements are provided by a cross-shore network of pressure sensors extended from the intertidal zone to the top of the barrier. Extreme offshore wave conditions are encountered during Talim, with significant wave height greater than 10m at the storm peak. It is shown that measured setups are smaller than those predicted by usual empirical parameterization. Groundwater dynamics is strongly affected by the storm, with watertable overheight of the order of one meter under the barrier top. Watertable dynamics is influenced by waves, tides and rainfalls.
Coastal Dynamics 2013

hal-00831573
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00831573