Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Both short-term and long-term morphodynamics of sand barrier systems forced by moderate storm conditions have been studied significantly in the literature. However, the dynamics of the emerged beach -- from a seaside water depth of ~ 1.5 metres below the lowest tide to the back-barrier -- impacted by typhoons remain scarcely documented. This study focuses on the analysis and a better understanding of the morphologic changes of such an emerged beach, when it is forced by one typhoon, several typhoons or the combination of a summer season of typhoons and a winter season of Monsoon wave/ wind conditions. The monitoring of near-shore hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics was performed in the Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier from November 2011 to August 2012. Waves, currents and water level were measured at an offshore buoy (Cigu buoy; 18 m of water depth; 1.5 km seaward the studied zone), a current profiler (4 m of water depth), and a serie of pressure sensors deployed along a cross-shore section from the lower intertidal zone up to the eolian dune. Tide was obtained from a tide gauge inside the lagoon and wind conditions were obtained respectively from an inland station and the offshore Cigu buoy. Morphodynamic changes were monitoring thanks to DGDPS surveys performed on a grid including a 300 meters long portion of sand barrier extending from the subtidal zone to the back-barrier, as well as along two cross-shore and two long-shore profiles located within the grid. Surveys were performed each week during winter and just before and after each storm during the typhoons summer season. This field methodology provided a new and very robust dataset in order to quantify sand barrier dynamics exposed to high-energy events at various time scales. Amongst the eight typhoons recorded, TALIM is the most significant and representative. Offshore wave height reached 10.34 m (Tp = 14.6 s) at Cigu buoy and 2.3 m in 4 m of water depth. Morphological changes recorded 6 m of retreat for the dune front, a 20 m large dune breaching and the occurence of a wash-over fan in the lagoon. These changes form a well-known morphodynamic responses to moderate storms. More surprisingly, TALIM drove a significant nourishment of the supratidal zone, as well as a positive sand balance on the whole sand barrier. Five other typhoons resulted in the same type of morphological responses while two typhoons resulted in a strong erosion of the whole emerged beach. During winter and spring (moderate wave conditions and strong Monsoon winds), sand moved from the beach front to the back-barrier. For the whole year, the sand barrier recorded a 12 m landward migration concomitantly with a 12 m widening without abrasion of the dune elevation.
American Geophysical Union, Fall Meeting 2013

hal-01012312
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01012312

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Les plages sableuses constituent une frontière mobile et poreuse entre l'océan ouvert et la terre. La compréhension de la circulation dans les nappes de plage est importante pour une variété de processus physiques, biologiques et chimiques. On cherche à caractériser in-situ la dynamique souterraine sous la zone de swash. Le site atelier est la plage microtidale de Rousty (Camargue, France). L'étude, réalisée sur 48h les 13 et 14 décembre 2014, fait partie d'une plus grande campagne de mesure visant à caractériser la réponse hydro-morphologique de la plage de Rousty à une saison hivernale. La période présentée ici correspond à la phase de déclin d'une tempête modérée. La stratégie retenue dans le cadre de ce projet a été de déployer un réseau de15 capteurs de pression enterrés sous la zone de swash. Les caractéristiques des vagues incidentes, à la fois au large et dans la zone de surf interne, ont été mesurées conjointement à l'utilisation d'un LiDAR terrestre haute fréquence permettant de suivre la surface libre et l'évolution du lit sableux à haute fréquence sur la zone de swash. L'analyse des données moyennées dans le temps a mis en évidence la présence d'un schéma de circulation relativement robuste sous la zone de swash, qui se décale vers le large en suivant la descente du niveau moyen et la diminution de l'activité des vagues. La tendancedominante est un écoulement vers le large, avec une intensité maximale de l'ordre de 0.1mm/s modulé par des infiltrations et exfiltrations dans les parties hautes et basses de la zone de swash, respectivement. L'analyse haute fréquence à des événements de swash sélectionnés ont mis en évidence uncycle souterrain caractéristique.
XIV èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil
toulon, France

hal-01357778
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01357778

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : National audience
Des expériences dans un bassin de 30 m x 30 m ont été réalisées dans l'objectif de caractériser la dynamique d'un courant d'arrachement et les évolutions morphologiques associées. La plage de sable fin (diamètre médian 166 microns) couvrait la largeur du bassin (30 m en longshore ) pour un profil total de 20 m cross-shore . La formation de courants sagittaux a été forcée par une houle frontale (spectre de Jonswap) avec un déficit d'énergie au centre du bassin. Une séquence accrétive complète de plage intermédiaire à simple barre (selon classification de WRIGHT & SHORT, 1984) a été reproduite. La barre s'est progressivement tridimensionnalisée en forme de croissant puis s'est connectée au haut de plage avec la présence de deux chenaux profonds qui se sont ensuite comblés pour obtenir une plage à terrasse au bout de plusieurs dizaines d'heures. L'association des mesures hydrodynamiques et morphodynamiques montre que le comblement des chenaux est alimenté par le haut de plage.
XI èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier - Génie Civil
Sables d'Olonne, France

hal-00861953
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00861953

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Shoreline and upper beach dynamics under extreme events: the KUNSHEN experiment (Wan Tzu Liao barrier, Taiwan)
PARALIA génie civil & génie côtier

hal-00861950
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00861950

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
34th International Conference on Coastal Engineering ICCE2014 in Seoul, Korea

hal-01426584
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426584

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Barrier island hydro-morphodynamics driven by typhoon events are the major concern of the project KUNSHEN (2011-2014). It aims at providing for a deep understanding of the peculiar dynamics of sand barriers where extreme events such as typhoons have a significant impact. We present the campaigns and the protocols achieved and planned in the project, on the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, Cigu Lagoon, Tainan, Taiwan, from October 2011 to January 2012, during the winter storm season and during summer 2012 during the typhoon season. A set of current profilers are deployed along a cross shore transect at 7, 4 and 2 meters deep. On the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, 3 columns of 3 pressiometers are deployed to survey the submersion. In the same time, morphological surveys are performed on the sand barrier with DGPS to analyse any change in the shoreline position, the beach slope, and the dynamics of sand beach features. A very preliminary analysis on these on-going field surveys suggests that the word "extreme" refers more to the consequence of the forcing on the sand barrier than the intensity of the forcing itself. The strategy developed in this first step will be refined to survey the next typhoon season, from May 2012 to October 2012.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854411
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854411
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.034-M

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc.
Résumé : International audience
Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neapspring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.
ICS 2016 Sydney
Sydney, Australia

hal-01254465
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465
DOI : 10.2112/SI75-075.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
American Geophysical Union, Fall Meeting 2013
Unknown, United States

hal-01426587
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426587

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Le lido de Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone (Languedoc-Roussillon) est un archétype de littoral microtidal, dominé par la houle, en érosion, et largement affecté par la submersion marine lors des tempêtes. Les observations réalisées dans le cadre du Système d'Observation Littoral - Trait de Côte (SO LTC) concernent l'hydrodynamique et le transport sédimentaire dans l'avant-côte et la lagune. La tache d'observation MAGOBS (Observatoire Aresquiers-Maguelone-Palavas) de cet observatoire regroupe un dispositif instrumental automatisé composé de 30 points d'acquisition en temps réel entre 6 mètres de profondeur et le haut de plage (à terre) ainsi que dans la lagune. Le dispositif est opérationnel depuis mai 2011. Son déploiement a permis de déverrouiller les difficultés techniques liées à la mesure temps réel en zone littorale : choix du type des appareils de mesure, de la technologie embarquée, des cadences d'acquisition, résolution des questions du transfert de la donnée. Le dispositif produit 2 Tera-octets de données par an. Les données sont stockées sur un ensemble de serveurs dédiés. Les données sont mises en ligne sur le site du SO-LTC (www.soltc.org), immédiatement après premiers traitements et qualification. Elles commencent à être utilisées pour des calculs de niveau d'eau à la côte, et dansdes outils de prédiction des vagues et des niveaux à la côte associant mesure et modélisation.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854410
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854410
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.064-G

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This communication reports on a field experiment carried out on a microtidal beach in Camargue, France. The analysis is built on the initial work presented by Sous et al. (2016) on swash-groundwater dynamics. The analysis of a cross-shore network of buried pressure sensors allows to monitor the watertable dynamics over the full 2013-2014 winter season. The pressure head gradients are observed to be primarily seaward, forced by a higher level at the landward boundary. The groundwater flux is driven by the relative fluctuations of Still Water Level and inland elevations. Rain and tides have a little effect. A nearly isolated groundwater circulation is driven by wave activity below the swash zone whatever the overall watertable gradient. Estimations of beach groundwater discharge over the Gulf of Beauduc reveal the importance of beach groundwater in the exchanges between coastal aquifer and open sea.
Coastal Dynamics 2017
Helsingor, Denmark

hal-01562908
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562908

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Island barriers are common features along the world coastlines. They have a crucial role in protecting inland and rich lagoonal ecosystems. Erosion and sand transfers on these island barriers during extreme events such as tropical storms or typhoons remain poorly investigated. This work focuses on a multi-scales nalysis (season to decade) of the morphodynamics of Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier subjected to extreme waves and sea surges. We combine topographic measurements of the emerged beach at seasonal scale between 2011 to 2012 and long-term (1993-2009) shoreline changes using aerial photographs and satellite images. At the seasonal scale, during Monsoon, the sand was taken from the beach-front and transported seaward outside the study area. During typhoons season, 12 typhoons drove a beach recovery process resulting in a seaward shoreline shift. This annual behavior is discussed in term of roll-over process of the barrier. At the decadal scale, the shoreline changes evidence cross-shore processes in the north part of the barrier and longshore processes in the south. Although the chronic landward migration displays several stages, the strong losses of the barrier area occurs only since 2004 and call into question the general concept of conservation of mass during the roll-over of a barrier.
Revue Paralia, XIIIème Journées Nationales Génie CIvil Génie Côtier
Dunkerque, France

hal-01018203
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01018203

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This communication reports on a field experiments carried out on the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The analysis is based on a cross-shore network of pressure sensors deployed across the reef flat and within the lagoon. Confirming existing observations, the measurements show the strong filtering role of the reef barrier on the incoming wave energy The swell energy is dissipated and transferred toward lower frequencies, including the so-called infragravity (IG) and very low frequency (VLF) waves. During energetic event (Hs=4.2m), IG and VLF significant wave heights on the reef flat are observed to reach 1.2 and 0.7m, respectively. A variety of long waves modes are observed on the reef, combining standing and progressive-dissipative modes. In any cases, the VLF and IG waves are much more developed over and close to the reef flat than further inside the lagoon.
Coastal Dynamics 2017
Helsingor, Denmark

hal-01562927
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562927

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically shearedcurrent and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic fieldcampaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season.The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and byco-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of fieldobservations shown seaward directed circulation with onshore component close to the air/sea surface whose intensityvaries according to incoming wave conditions. Forth, vertical shear increase when breaking happen close to sensorlocation and orientation of mean circulation depend on wind direction.
35th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Antalya, Turkey

hal-01426582
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426582

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
The present research work is a part of the KUNSHEN Franco-Taiwanese research project which aims at investigating the hydro/morphodynamics of barrier islands driven by typhoon events. This study focuses on the impact of the Talim tropical storm on the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier (Taiwan) in terms of water level rising and watertable overheight. In-situ measurements are provided by a cross-shore network of pressure sensors extended from the intertidal zone to the top of the barrier. Extreme offshore wave conditions are encountered during Talim, with significant wave height greater than 10m at the storm peak. It is shown that measured setups are smaller than those predicted by usual empirical parameterization. Groundwater dynamics is strongly affected by the storm, with watertable overheight of the order of one meter under the barrier top. Watertable dynamics is influenced by waves, tides and rainfalls.
Coastal Dynamics 2013

hal-00831573
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00831573

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
This manuscript reports on a novel field experiment carried out on a microtidal beach in Camargue, France. For the first time in the field, a comprehensive description of the groundwater dynamics under sandy beach swash zone is presented. A cross-shore network of 15 buried pressure sensors is combined with terrestrial LiDAR measurements to study the swash-groundwater dynamics. The presented data focus on the decay of a moderate storm which allows to monitor the evolution of the groundwater pressure field in response to the retreat of the swash zone. Both horizontal and vertical head gradients are measured within the porous sand soil to estimate the groundwater flow field using Darcy’s law. Time-averaged analysis demonstrates the presence of a rather consistent groundwater circulation pattern under the swash zone, shifting offshore with the swash zone. The main tendency is an offshore directed flow, with infiltration/exfiltration in the upper/lower parts of the swash zone. Time-resolved analysis highlights the typical groundwater response to swash events which consists mainly of an overall infiltration flow during the bed inundation by the swash tongue, a seaward flow during the swash retreat and, for long backwash events, a localized exfiltration flow under the next incoming uprush.
ISSN: 0309-1708

hal-01412450
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01412450
DOI : 10.1016/j.advwatres.2016.09.009

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD World Scientific
Résumé : The present paper presents a laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed. The rip current characteristics over four distinct beach morphologies, exhibiting more or less developed nature-like bar-rip morphology,were investigated. For each video run, the same off shore shore-normal waves were generated by the wave maker with the same mean water level in order to study the sensitivity of the rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 1-hour video run was used to track a large number (~30) of drifters released within the surf zone. Image coordinates were then rectifie d to still water level Cartesian coordinates to compute drifter velocities, mean characteristics and surf zone rete ntion rates. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counter-rotating cells and a relatively narrowoffshore-directed jet with, for three of the situations, a reasonably symmetric shape. Non-surprisingly, it was found that rip current intensity increases with increasing relative depth of the rip channel. The wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviation in fl ow intensity and direction provides high resolution information on the spatial variability of the rip current insta bilities with, for instance, highly-pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow in the rip channel. Conversely to what was previously hypothesized in the literature, there was hardly trace of vortices being shed offs hore and drifters exiting the surf zone compartment were not systematically caught by a pulsating jet. The cause for drifter exiting the semi-enclosed surf zone compartment remains, however, elusive and deserves further investigations. The computed surf zone retention rates (~90%) were of the order of those previously observed in the field, with no clear relationship with the mean rip current velocity or relative depth of the rip channel. Further video-runs will have to be analyzed to explore potential explanations
Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009 Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes

ISBN : 978-981-4282-46
hal-00854534
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854534