Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : National audience
Des expériences dans un bassin de 30 m x 30 m ont été réalisées dans l'objectif de caractériser la dynamique d'un courant d'arrachement et les évolutions morphologiques associées. La plage de sable fin (diamètre médian 166 microns) couvrait la largeur du bassin (30 m en longshore ) pour un profil total de 20 m cross-shore . La formation de courants sagittaux a été forcée par une houle frontale (spectre de Jonswap) avec un déficit d'énergie au centre du bassin. Une séquence accrétive complète de plage intermédiaire à simple barre (selon classification de WRIGHT & SHORT, 1984) a été reproduite. La barre s'est progressivement tridimensionnalisée en forme de croissant puis s'est connectée au haut de plage avec la présence de deux chenaux profonds qui se sont ensuite comblés pour obtenir une plage à terrasse au bout de plusieurs dizaines d'heures. L'association des mesures hydrodynamiques et morphodynamiques montre que le comblement des chenaux est alimenté par le haut de plage.
XI èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier - Génie Civil
Sables d'Olonne, France

hal-00861953
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00861953

Éditeur(s) : Elsevier Science Bv
Résumé : In this study, the Capbreton canyon head, just off the coast, is investigated using high-resolution multibeam bathymetry datasets, sediment samples and numerical modeling. The HR bathymetry analysis reveals a morphological connection between the longshore trough and the head of the canyon. The analysis of recent sediment samples shows a clear correlation between the sediment of the canyon head and that of the nearshore. Hydrodynamic modeling (a coupled wave-flow model) shows that for high-energy waves, the rotational nature of surf-zone circulation reverses and wave-induced currents have the potential to transport large quantities of nearshore sands toward the canyon head. All these arguments support the assumption that the canyon head captures a part of the sand transported by longshore drift. Over the 15 years of observation (1998–2013), time-lapse bathymetry shows that the floor of the canyon head and one lateral gully network experienced significant morphological reworking. In terms of hazards, despite this strong activity, the position of the canyon head and the profile of its longitudinal slope remained stable and appears as a comforting factor. However, the activity of unusual lateral erosions needs to be monitored.
Marine Geology (0025-3227) (Elsevier Science Bv), 2014-05 , Vol. 351 , P. 1-12

Droits : 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29118/27524.pdf
DOI:10.1016/j.margeo2014.03.001
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29118/

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : National audience
Le littoral, caractérisé par une grande diversitéd’environnements (plages sableuses ou rocheuses, cordonsdunaires, falaises, lagunes, estuaires...) est une zone très mobile etévolutive du fait de forçages hydrodynamiques et météorologiquessouvent intenses. Cet environnement est fragile, car soumis àl’impact d’activités humaines qui ne cessent d’augmenter (urbanisation,aménagements...), mais aussi aux effets du changementclimatique (élévation du niveau de la mer, modification durégime de houles, inondations). Comprendre le fonctionnementhydromorpho-sédimentaire des environnements littoraux est crucialpour prédire leur évolution et celle des écosystèmes associés.Le Service National d’Observation labellisé par le CNRS, (SNO)DYNALIT, - Dynamique du Littoral et du Trait de Côte a pourbut de constituer une base de données hydromorphologiques sur lelong terme de 29 sites ateliers représentatifs des environnementslittoraux français (côtes sableuses, falaises et embouchures) afin :- De mesurer la cinématique de ces environnements et du trait decôte associé ;- De mieux comprendre les interactions entre les processushydrodynamiques-transport sédimentaires-réponse morphologiqueassociés à la dynamique du littoral ;- Utiliser les observations pour améliorer notre connaissance desréponses de la morphologie des littoraux dans différents contextesde forçages météo-marins ;- D’utiliser ces observations pour analyser l’importance relativedes facteurs anthropiques et naturels sur la dynamique littorale ;- De se positionner en interlocuteur pour les responsables de ladéfinition et la mise en oeuvre des politiques de gestion des risqueslittoraux.
RST 2016, livre des résumés
Caen, France

insu-01387873
https://hal-insu.archives-ouvertes.fr/insu-01387873

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Inter Research
Résumé : International audience
The main objective of the VULSACO (VULnerability of SAndy COasts to climate change and anthropic pressure) project was to investigate present day and potential future vulnerability of sandy coasts at the 2030 horizon, i.e. on a time scale related to climate variability. The method, based on a multidisciplinary approach bringing together geologists, geographers, physicists, social psychologists, engineers and stakeholders, was structured around 4 axes: field data analysis; numerical modelling; analysis of governance and stakeholder perceptions; and development of vulnerability indexes. This approach was designed to investigate vulnerability at a local scale and was applied to 4 contrasting beaches located in France: Sète Lido (Mediterranean Sea), Truc Vert and La Tresson beaches (Atlantic Ocean), and Dewulf (English Channel). The results focus on decadal and multi-annual beach trends at the Truc Vert beach site. There is almost no trend in beach volume at Truc Vert beach, although there is a variation in this parameter on a cycle of 2 to 3 yr, with variations related to wave energy and probably to indexes of climate variability. Numerical modelling identified the sensitivity of beach responses to changes in wave height and direction, especially in terms of subtidal morphology and the potential development of shoreline instability. Together with the observed offshore wave angle at the Biscay Buoy, these model results suggest that a potential change in wave angle due to climate variability could significantly modify the bars' morphology. The combination of data analysis and numerical modelling contributed to the development of vulnerability indexes designed for sandy coasts, which take into account climate-dependant variables such as waves. This allowed the differentiation of the sites in terms of vulnerability to erosion: Sète Lido and Truc Vert beach were the most and least vulnerable sites, respectively. These indexes help in identifying the dominant components of beach vulnerability, and provide potential for the study of how anthropogenic factors affect vulnerability. The study of stakeholder perceptions and decision-making with regard to climate-related risk also highlighted potential anthropogenic effects on beach vulnerability, and identified possible site-specific outcomes.
ISSN: 0936-577X

hal-00843946
https://hal-brgm.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00843946
DOI : 10.3354/cr01153

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD American Geophysical Union
Résumé : International audience
This study describes a laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed. Rip current characteristics over eight contrasting nature-like beach morphologies are investigated. The seabed varied from reasonably alongshore uniform to strongly alongshore nonuniform with crescentic patterns and bar-rip morphologies, representative of a full morphological down-state sequence. The same offshore shore-normal waves were generated by the wavemaker for the eight situations with the same mean water level to study the sensitivity of rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 30 to 60 min video run was used to track a large number of drifters released within the surf zone. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counterrotating cells and a relatively narrow offshore-directed jet varying from shore-normal to strongly skewed. Wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviations of flow intensity and direction provide high-resolution information on the spatial variability of rip current instabilities. Highly pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow is observed in the rip neck for well-developed bar-rip morphologies that turns into a weakly pulsating and highly directional variable rip current flow with decreasing beach alongshore nonuniformity. Proposing a definition of rip current intensity based on the rip current circulation geometry, rip current intensity was found to linearly increase with increasing measure of beach alongshore nonuniformity within both the low-energy and moderate-energy rip current regimes. To date, our laboratory experiment provides the first extensive quantitative rip current information during a full down-state sequence for a given wave condition.
ISSN: 0148-0227

hal-00602920
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602920
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006343

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD World Scientific
Résumé : The present paper presents a laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed. The rip current characteristics over four distinct beach morphologies, exhibiting more or less developed nature-like bar-rip morphology,were investigated. For each video run, the same off shore shore-normal waves were generated by the wave maker with the same mean water level in order to study the sensitivity of the rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 1-hour video run was used to track a large number (~30) of drifters released within the surf zone. Image coordinates were then rectifie d to still water level Cartesian coordinates to compute drifter velocities, mean characteristics and surf zone rete ntion rates. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counter-rotating cells and a relatively narrowoffshore-directed jet with, for three of the situations, a reasonably symmetric shape. Non-surprisingly, it was found that rip current intensity increases with increasing relative depth of the rip channel. The wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviation in fl ow intensity and direction provides high resolution information on the spatial variability of the rip current insta bilities with, for instance, highly-pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow in the rip channel. Conversely to what was previously hypothesized in the literature, there was hardly trace of vortices being shed offs hore and drifters exiting the surf zone compartment were not systematically caught by a pulsating jet. The cause for drifter exiting the semi-enclosed surf zone compartment remains, however, elusive and deserves further investigations. The computed surf zone retention rates (~90%) were of the order of those previously observed in the field, with no clear relationship with the mean rip current velocity or relative depth of the rip channel. Further video-runs will have to be analyzed to explore potential explanations
Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009 Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes

ISBN : 978-981-4282-46
hal-00854534
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854534