Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
Current profiles
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01122783
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01122783

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Both short-term and long-term morphodynamics of sand barrier systems forced by moderate storm conditions have been studied significantly in the literature. However, the dynamics of the emerged beach -- from a seaside water depth of ~ 1.5 metres below the lowest tide to the back-barrier -- impacted by typhoons remain scarcely documented. This study focuses on the analysis and a better understanding of the morphologic changes of such an emerged beach, when it is forced by one typhoon, several typhoons or the combination of a summer season of typhoons and a winter season of Monsoon wave/ wind conditions. The monitoring of near-shore hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics was performed in the Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier from November 2011 to August 2012. Waves, currents and water level were measured at an offshore buoy (Cigu buoy; 18 m of water depth; 1.5 km seaward the studied zone), a current profiler (4 m of water depth), and a serie of pressure sensors deployed along a cross-shore section from the lower intertidal zone up to the eolian dune. Tide was obtained from a tide gauge inside the lagoon and wind conditions were obtained respectively from an inland station and the offshore Cigu buoy. Morphodynamic changes were monitoring thanks to DGDPS surveys performed on a grid including a 300 meters long portion of sand barrier extending from the subtidal zone to the back-barrier, as well as along two cross-shore and two long-shore profiles located within the grid. Surveys were performed each week during winter and just before and after each storm during the typhoons summer season. This field methodology provided a new and very robust dataset in order to quantify sand barrier dynamics exposed to high-energy events at various time scales. Amongst the eight typhoons recorded, TALIM is the most significant and representative. Offshore wave height reached 10.34 m (Tp = 14.6 s) at Cigu buoy and 2.3 m in 4 m of water depth. Morphological changes recorded 6 m of retreat for the dune front, a 20 m large dune breaching and the occurence of a wash-over fan in the lagoon. These changes form a well-known morphodynamic responses to moderate storms. More surprisingly, TALIM drove a significant nourishment of the supratidal zone, as well as a positive sand balance on the whole sand barrier. Five other typhoons resulted in the same type of morphological responses while two typhoons resulted in a strong erosion of the whole emerged beach. During winter and spring (moderate wave conditions and strong Monsoon winds), sand moved from the beach front to the back-barrier. For the whole year, the sand barrier recorded a 12 m landward migration concomitantly with a 12 m widening without abrasion of the dune elevation.
American Geophysical Union, Fall Meeting 2013

hal-01012312
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01012312

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The field campaign on the Sète coast deployed during the winter 2009 was used to understand the hydrodynamics on a double barred beach in the surf zone during storm periods. The large set of measurements collected at several position and depth were also useful to improve the 3D circulation model Symphonie that takes into account the atmospherics and wave forcings. Once implemented on the beach and supplemented with some additional parameterizations concerning the roller effects and the bottom friction, the model was tuned and validated in the surf zone. The role of the different processes was then analysed. Thus, the roller and the bottom friction are of primary importance in the dynamics of the circulation. Thanks to its 3D nature and once associated with a sediment transport model and a morphodynamic model, Symphonie will offer a good representation of the sediment transport.
Coastal Dynamics 2013
Arcachon, France

hal-00855035
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00855035

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
11e Congrès Français de Sédimentologie,
Unknown, Unknown or Invalid Region

hal-01426592
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426592

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD American Institute of Mathematical Sciences
Résumé : International audience
In this paper, shape optimization tools are applied to coastal engineering. A barred beach protection study is described, using a new type of water wave attenuator device, namely geotextile tube, to reduce the mobilization of sediments. A global optimization algorithm, able to pursue beyond local minima, is used to search for the optimum properties of the geotextile tube. The optimal configuration is then post-validated for generated currents.
ISSN: 1531-3492

hal-00475636
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00475636
DOI : 10.3934/dcdsb.2010.13.759

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
Holocene Lake Mega-Chad (LMC) was the largest late Quaternary water-body in Africa. The development of this giant paleo-lake is related to a northward shift of the isohyetes interpreted as evidence for an enhanced Monsoon (African Humid Period). Numerous preserved coastal features have been described all around the LMC shore. Such features reveal the main paleo-hydrodynamical tendencies. In the context of a closed water-body like LMC, hydrodynamics are forced mainly by winds. We use a three-dimensional numerical model (SYMPHONIE) to simulate the mean hydrodynamics in LMC under both Harmattan-like (northeasterly trade winds) and Monsoon-like (southwesterly winds) forcings. The northern part of LMC displays coastal features, such as sand spits, that are consistent with the simulations forced by Harmattan-like winds. Geomorphic features related to Monsoon-driven hydrodynamics are not clearly expressed. They could have developed during the early stage of LMC but subsequently reworked. At the time of sand-spit building, Harmattan-like driven hydrodynamics prevailed and related coastal features were preferentially preserved in the sedimentary record.
ISSN: 0033-5894

hal-00475633
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00475633
DOI : 10.1016/j.yqres.2009.10.010

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Les plages sableuses constituent une frontière mobile et poreuse entre l'océan ouvert et la terre. La compréhension de la circulation dans les nappes de plage est importante pour une variété de processus physiques, biologiques et chimiques. On cherche à caractériser in-situ la dynamique souterraine sous la zone de swash. Le site atelier est la plage microtidale de Rousty (Camargue, France). L'étude, réalisée sur 48h les 13 et 14 décembre 2014, fait partie d'une plus grande campagne de mesure visant à caractériser la réponse hydro-morphologique de la plage de Rousty à une saison hivernale. La période présentée ici correspond à la phase de déclin d'une tempête modérée. La stratégie retenue dans le cadre de ce projet a été de déployer un réseau de15 capteurs de pression enterrés sous la zone de swash. Les caractéristiques des vagues incidentes, à la fois au large et dans la zone de surf interne, ont été mesurées conjointement à l'utilisation d'un LiDAR terrestre haute fréquence permettant de suivre la surface libre et l'évolution du lit sableux à haute fréquence sur la zone de swash. L'analyse des données moyennées dans le temps a mis en évidence la présence d'un schéma de circulation relativement robuste sous la zone de swash, qui se décale vers le large en suivant la descente du niveau moyen et la diminution de l'activité des vagues. La tendancedominante est un écoulement vers le large, avec une intensité maximale de l'ordre de 0.1mm/s modulé par des infiltrations et exfiltrations dans les parties hautes et basses de la zone de swash, respectivement. L'analyse haute fréquence à des événements de swash sélectionnés ont mis en évidence uncycle souterrain caractéristique.
XIV èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil
toulon, France

hal-01357778
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01357778

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
The paper presents coastal structures design in the presence of waves by the minimization of a cost function. It aims to show that shape optimization can be efficiently applied to ocean engineering. This is an underlying guiding principle for the design of harbors or offshore breakwaters. We compute the solution of a specific simplified boundary value problem describing the short wave propagation toward a vertical sea cliff or vertical wall and modify accordingly the shape of defense structures in order to minimize a pre-defined cost function taking into account the strength (energy) of the water waves. The optimization procedure relies on a global semi-deterministic search algorithm able to escape from local minima.
ISSN: 0378-3839

hal-00411905
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00411905
DOI : 10.1016/j.coastaleng.2007.06.006

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : National audience
Des expériences dans un bassin de 30 m x 30 m ont été réalisées dans l'objectif de caractériser la dynamique d'un courant d'arrachement et les évolutions morphologiques associées. La plage de sable fin (diamètre médian 166 microns) couvrait la largeur du bassin (30 m en longshore ) pour un profil total de 20 m cross-shore . La formation de courants sagittaux a été forcée par une houle frontale (spectre de Jonswap) avec un déficit d'énergie au centre du bassin. Une séquence accrétive complète de plage intermédiaire à simple barre (selon classification de WRIGHT & SHORT, 1984) a été reproduite. La barre s'est progressivement tridimensionnalisée en forme de croissant puis s'est connectée au haut de plage avec la présence de deux chenaux profonds qui se sont ensuite comblés pour obtenir une plage à terrasse au bout de plusieurs dizaines d'heures. L'association des mesures hydrodynamiques et morphodynamiques montre que le comblement des chenaux est alimenté par le haut de plage.
XI èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier - Génie Civil
Sables d'Olonne, France

hal-00861953
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00861953

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Shoreline and upper beach dynamics under extreme events: the KUNSHEN experiment (Wan Tzu Liao barrier, Taiwan)
PARALIA génie civil & génie côtier

hal-00861950
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00861950

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
34th International Conference on Coastal Engineering ICCE2014 in Seoul, Korea

hal-01426584
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426584

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
Coastal Engineering Proceedings

hal-01426585
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426585

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
A high-resolution record of paleostorm events along the French Mediterranean coast over the past 7000 years was established from a lagoonal sediment core in the Gulf of Lions. Integrating grain size, faunal analysis, clay mineralogy and geochemistry data with a chronology derived from radiocarbon dating, we recorded seven periods of increased storm activity at 6300-6100, 5650-5400, 4400-4050, 3650-3200, 2800-2600, 1950-1400 and 400-50 cal yr BP (in the Little Ice Age). In contrast, our results show that the Medieval Climate Anomaly (1150-650 cal yr BP) was characterised by low storm activity.;The evidence for high storm activity in the NW Mediterranean Sea is in agreement with the changes in coastal hydrodynamics observed over the Eastern North Atlantic and seems to correspond to Holocene cooling-in the North Atlantic. Periods of low SSTs there may have led to a stronger meridional temperature gradient and a southward migration of the westerlies. We hypothesise that the increase in storm activity during Holocene cold events over the North Atlantic and Mediterranean regions was probably due to an increase in the thermal gradient that led to an enhanced lower tropospheric baroclinicity over a large Central Atlantic-European domain. (C) 2011 University of Washington. Published by Elsevier Inc. All rights reserved.
ISSN: 0033-5894

hal-00760909
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00760909
DOI : 10.1016/j.yqres.2011.09.002

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Des techniques d'optimisation de formes sont utilisées dans des problèmes du Génie Côtier pour la protection des plages. En collaboration avec le bureau d'étude Bas-Rhône Languedoc ingénierie, un projet d'aménagement concret de la plage du Lido de Sète, utilisant des ouvrages immergés en géotextile, a été étudié. Des solutions optimales, visant à réduire la mise en suspension des sédiments, pour les structures de défenses ont été obtenues à partir d'un modèle hydrodynamique de propagation de houle. Une étude complémentaire à partir d'un modèle de circulation et des travaux expérimentaux en canal à houle permettent ensuite de valider les résultats optimaux numériques obtenus. Shape optimization techniques, focusing on coastal structures design, are used to solve coastal engineering problem. In collaboration with the Bas-Rhône Languedoc engineering Company, a actual development plan concerning the beach of the Lido of Sète has been studied. Optimal solutions, aimed at reducing sediments suspended, for defense structures have been obtained with a hydrodynamic water wave model. An additional study using a circulation model and experimental works in flume tend to validate optimal numerical results.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854031
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854031
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2008.025-I

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : SUBDUNE v0.6 is a very preliminary version of an exploratory model designed tocompute the sea level to the shoreline, combining the effects of various physics, from run-up to tides. It aims at providing an easy-to-use and quick way to estimate water elevation to the beach, assuming morphology is known. Combined with accurate beachdata, such as LIDAR, this engineering tool may provide with end-users an efficient way to quantify submersion.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854170
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854170
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.022-B

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The sinking of the Prestige tanker (November, 2002) spilled over 64000 tons of heavy fuel oil. The Prestige oil spill (POS) affected approximately 1000 km of coast belonging to Portugal, France and Spain and more than 600 sandy beaches were polluted along the Atlantic coast of Spain. Since POS, yearly surveys of two oiled sandy beaches (Galicia, NW Spain) have provided evidences regarding the oil pollution behavior and the influence of beach morphodynamics on the dynamics of the contamination. The analysis of wave climate, the extracted suction cores and the detected oil from 2004 and 2009 fieldworks have allowed to promote a conceptual model of the influence of beach morphodynamics on the first steps of an oil spill and to establish the effects on the long-term oil pollution
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783182
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783182

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Barrier island hydro-morphodynamics driven by typhoon events are the major concern of the project KUNSHEN (2011-2014). It aims at providing for a deep understanding of the peculiar dynamics of sand barriers where extreme events such as typhoons have a significant impact. We present the campaigns and the protocols achieved and planned in the project, on the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, Cigu Lagoon, Tainan, Taiwan, from October 2011 to January 2012, during the winter storm season and during summer 2012 during the typhoon season. A set of current profilers are deployed along a cross shore transect at 7, 4 and 2 meters deep. On the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, 3 columns of 3 pressiometers are deployed to survey the submersion. In the same time, morphological surveys are performed on the sand barrier with DGPS to analyse any change in the shoreline position, the beach slope, and the dynamics of sand beach features. A very preliminary analysis on these on-going field surveys suggests that the word "extreme" refers more to the consequence of the forcing on the sand barrier than the intensity of the forcing itself. The strategy developed in this first step will be refined to survey the next typhoon season, from May 2012 to October 2012.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854411
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854411
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.034-M

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Island barriers are common features along the world coastlines. They have a crucial role in protecting inland and rich lagoonal ecosystems. Erosion and sand transfers on these island barriers during extreme events such as tropical storms or typhoons remain poorly investigated. This work focuses on a multi-scales nalysis (season to decade) of the morphodynamics of Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier subjected to extreme waves and sea surges. We combine topographic measurements of the emerged beach at seasonal scale between 2011 to 2012 and long-term (1993-2009) shoreline changes using aerial photographs and satellite images. At the seasonal scale, during Monsoon, the sand was taken from the beach-front and transported seaward outside the study area. During typhoons season, 12 typhoons drove a beach recovery process resulting in a seaward shoreline shift. This annual behavior is discussed in term of roll-over process of the barrier. At the decadal scale, the shoreline changes evidence cross-shore processes in the north part of the barrier and longshore processes in the south. Although the chronic landward migration displays several stages, the strong losses of the barrier area occurs only since 2004 and call into question the general concept of conservation of mass during the roll-over of a barrier.
Revue Paralia, XIIIème Journées Nationales Génie CIvil Génie Côtier
Dunkerque, France

hal-01018203
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01018203

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00905651
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00905651

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
After defining the High Performance Pre- Computing --referred as HPPC-- concept, the aim of the present study is to develop a prototype whether to approve or not the benefits of this concept. Our application case tries to answer the geophysical issue of coastal flooding. This is an example of an alert system based on the HPPC architecture, thus on pre-computed scenarios. The prototype provides the scientists with an ergonomic and on-demand tool allowing the run of scenarios of any implemented numerical models. These runs are available through a web application which submits the corresponding jobs on the remote french public cluster of HPC@LR. In this study we simulate the waves propagation over a Mediterranean grid using the wave model WaveWatch III⃝R . A reference simulation using usual conditions is approximated using the k-NN algorithm over 12, 98 and then 980 pre-computed scenarios. This simple experiment demonstrates how useful the pre-computing of scenarios is for alert systems as far as enough and relevant scenarios are pre-computed. This is the reason why searches continue in each critical points of the HPPC architecture such as the design of experiment, the approximation of the results by meta-models and the research of the closest scenarios in this big data context.
4th International Conference on Knowledge and Systems Engineering
Danang, Vietnam

lirmm-00736797
https://hal-lirmm.ccsd.cnrs.fr/lirmm-00736797
https://hal-lirmm.ccsd.cnrs.fr/lirmm-00736797/document
https://hal-lirmm.ccsd.cnrs.fr/lirmm-00736797/file/PID2396685.pdf
DOI : 10.1109/KSE.2012.36