Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
Current profiles
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01122783
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01122783

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The field campaign on the Sète coast deployed during the winter 2009 was used to understand the hydrodynamics on a double barred beach in the surf zone during storm periods. The large set of measurements collected at several position and depth were also useful to improve the 3D circulation model Symphonie that takes into account the atmospherics and wave forcings. Once implemented on the beach and supplemented with some additional parameterizations concerning the roller effects and the bottom friction, the model was tuned and validated in the surf zone. The role of the different processes was then analysed. Thus, the roller and the bottom friction are of primary importance in the dynamics of the circulation. Thanks to its 3D nature and once associated with a sediment transport model and a morphodynamic model, Symphonie will offer a good representation of the sediment transport.
Coastal Dynamics 2013
Arcachon, France

hal-00855035
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00855035

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Société Géologique de France
Résumé : Pages 72, 1 CD
International audience
Mémoire de la Société Géologique n.s.

hal-00593502
https://hal-brgm.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00593502

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : SUBSURF
Statistical sequential analysis was performed on a series of sediment cores collected from the Têt prodelta in the Gulf of Lions, northwestern Mediterranean Sea, between October 2003 and October 2004. Seabed changes during that period were correlated to hydrodynamic conditions (waves and currents) and river discharge. Low sediment supply prevents full preservation of new sediment strata on this low-accumulation prodelta located on a microtidal, storm-dominated inner shelf. Severe meteorological events caused a rapid succession of erosion and deposition phases. For example, the December 2003 flood and storm produced a flood layer deposit that persisted for 2 months with only slight transformations due to early diagenesis and/or bioturbation, until a new storm event eroded this layer. A typical sedimentary sequence was observed for the secular deposits composed of a 10-cm-thick sandy layer overlaying siltyclayey layers. These characteristic features were used to analyse the last millennia sedimentary record of the Têt prodelta. The low preservation of freshly deposited sediments and variable sedimentation rates during the last millennia period yield a sedimentary sequence formed by the outcropping of muddy prodeltaic units intersected by heterogeneous siltysandy units similar to those formed under present day hydrodynamic conditions. No flood layer was found related to catastrophic flooding of the last century in the sedimentary record. The Little Ice Age ( 1550–1850 AD) probably favoured the formation of a well-developed muddy prodelta in the mouth of the Têt River. Later on, the decrease of sediment supply by rivers due to climate change and/or human activities (damming, irrigation), and the increase of the number of high-energy storms reaching the coast, induced a coarsening of the top sediment layer on this prodelta. This modern change of the substrate is also observed in the composition of benthic biota found in the substrate
ISSN: 0025-3227

hal-00407662
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00407662
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.04.009

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Météo et Climat
Résumé : International audience
D'initiative française, le projet international HyMeX a pour objectif d'améliorer la compréhension du cycle de l'eau en Méditerranée, de sa variabilité, de l'échelle de l'événement météorologique aux échelles saisonnières et interannuelles, et de ses caractéristiques sur une décennie, dans un contexte de changement global. Le projet est motivé par le rôle déterminant des processus de mésoéchelle, couplés entre l'atmosphère, la mer et la terre, sur la variabilité du système climatique et sur le déclenchement d'événements hydrométéorologiques extrêmes (précipitations et inondations, vents forts et convection océanique, canicules et sécheresses). Le projet vise enfin à évaluer les conséquences de ces événements extrêmes sur la vulnérabilité sociale et économique de cette région et sa capacité d'adaptation.
ISSN: 0026-1181

hal-00828758
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00828758
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00828758/document
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00828758/file/meteo_2013_80_23%20%281%29.pdf
DOI : 10.4267/2042/48792

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Le lido de Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone (Languedoc-Roussillon) est un archétype de littoral microtidal, dominé par la houle, en érosion, et largement affecté par la submersion marine lors des tempêtes. Les observations réalisées dans le cadre du Système d'Observation Littoral - Trait de Côte (SO LTC) concernent l'hydrodynamique et le transport sédimentaire dans l'avant-côte et la lagune. La tache d'observation MAGOBS (Observatoire Aresquiers-Maguelone-Palavas) de cet observatoire regroupe un dispositif instrumental automatisé composé de 30 points d'acquisition en temps réel entre 6 mètres de profondeur et le haut de plage (à terre) ainsi que dans la lagune. Le dispositif est opérationnel depuis mai 2011. Son déploiement a permis de déverrouiller les difficultés techniques liées à la mesure temps réel en zone littorale : choix du type des appareils de mesure, de la technologie embarquée, des cadences d'acquisition, résolution des questions du transfert de la donnée. Le dispositif produit 2 Tera-octets de données par an. Les données sont stockées sur un ensemble de serveurs dédiés. Les données sont mises en ligne sur le site du SO-LTC (www.soltc.org), immédiatement après premiers traitements et qualification. Elles commencent à être utilisées pour des calculs de niveau d'eau à la côte, et dansdes outils de prédiction des vagues et des niveaux à la côte associant mesure et modélisation.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854410
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854410
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.064-G

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Wiley-Blackwell
Résumé : International audience
Sinkholes are frequently observed where soluble rocks are present, in meteoritic recharge areas or when subsurface dissolution causes ground collapse. Seismic profiles on the inner shelf of the Gulf of Lions (W. Mediterranean) display a giant atypical sub-circular structure, up to 800-m thick and 2-km wide. It is characterized by down-warped internal seismic reflections forming a concave V-shaped depression rooted in the substratum, most likely carbonated. This structure is interpreted as a poly-phased solution-subsidence/collapse structure of Plio-Quaternary age. The last phase of deformation probably occurred during the last sea-level low-stand phase. The mechanism proposed for the creation of this structure is collapse/dissolution of the soluble substratum, as a result of a combination of several possible factors including pre-existing deep Messinian palaeo-karst with active groundwater flows during Plio-Quaternary lowstands, and deep-rooted acidic fluids ascending through the substratum.
ISSN: 0954-4879

hal-00758063
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00758063
DOI : 10.1111/j.1365-3121.2011.01051.x

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : The wave-dominated beach barrier of Villeneuve-Lès-Maguelone extends between Palavas and Frontignan (Gul f of Lions, northernmost Me diterranean Sea), along a slightly natural sandy protected area char acterized by typical and well-expressed morphologies. In the nearshore, the sea bottom shows one or two approximately rectilinear sand bars. In 2010-2011, we pe rformed a 6 month-long monitoring (autumn 2010/late spring 2011) of a 500 meter-long se gment along this sand barrier. We used RTK D-GPS offering centimeter resolution to acquire sets of elevation data on the beach and the upper shoreface. The study is innovative because a full morphologic monitoring was performed each time the wave/ wind conditions changed significantly. These changes were tracked in real-time thanks to a set of hydrodynamic equipments deployed at sea, including well-known DREAL buoys. We identify from well- documented data: (1) a beach reconstruction cycle at the shorelin e after a moderate storm event (wave height at 3-4 m) and (2) how a sand bar in the nearshore migrates to the shoreline and drives the shoreline shift.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854402
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854402
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.023-C

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD European Geosciences Union
Résumé : International audience
We develop and implement a new method to take into account the impact of waves into the 3-D circulation model SYMPHONIE (Marsaleix et al., 2008, 2009a), following the simplified equations of Bennis et al. (2011) which use glm2z-RANS theory (Ardhuin et al., 2008b). These adiabatic equations are completed by additional parameterizations of wave breaking, bottom friction and wave-enhanced vertical mixing, making the forcing valid from the surf zone through to the open ocean. The wave forcing is performed by wave generation and propagation models WAVEWATCH III® (Tolman, 2008, 2009; Ardhuin et al., 2010) and SWAN (Booij et al., 1999). The model is tested and compared with other models for a plane beach test case, previously tested by Haas and Warner (2009) and Uchiyama et al. (2010). A comparison is also made with the laboratory measurements of Haller et al. (2002) of a barred beach with channels. Results fit with previous simulations performed by other models and with available observational data. Finally, a realistic case of energetic waves travelling over a coast of the Gulf of Lion (in the northwest of the Mediterranean Sea) for which currents are available at different depths as well as an accurate bathymetric database of the 0-10 m depth range, is then simulated. A grid nesting approach is used to account for the different forcings acting at different spatial scales. The simulation coupling the effects of waves and currents is successful to reproduce the powerful northward littoral drift in the 0-15 m depth zone. More precisely, two distinct cases are identified: when waves have a normal angle of incidence with the coast, they are responsible for complex circulation cells and rip currents in the surf zone, and when they travel obliquely, they generate a northward littoral drift. These features are more complicated than in the test cases, due to the complex bathymetry and the consideration of wind and non-stationary processes. Wave impacts in the inner shelf are less visible since wind and regional circulation seem to be the predominant forcings. Besides, a discrepancy between model and observations is noted at that scale, possibly linked to an underestimation of the wind stress. Lastly, this three-dimensional method allows a good representation of vertical current profiles and permits to calculate the shear stress associated with wave and current. Future work will focus on the combination with a sediment transport model.
ISSN: 1812-0806

hal-00766548
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548/document
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548/file/os-8-657-2012.pdf
DOI : 10.5194/osd-8-2417-2011

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Société géologique de France
Résumé : International audience
The Messinian salinity crisis (MSC) is characterized by gigantic erosion that remodels the margins while a thick, essentially evaporitic and detrital, sedimentary sequence forms in the deep basins. Based on recent (MAURESC, 2003) and earlier (MESEA 1, 1990; MAGIRAA, 1996; GEOBREST, 2002) seismic reflection data, this work brings to light the record of the MSC on the Provençal margin, which has until now been rarely explored from this perspective. Beyond its strictly regional interest, this study fits into a larger synthesis of MSC seismic markers in the Mediterranean and Black Sea marine domain [Lofi et al., 2011] and employs the new nomenclature established on this occasion. The results obtained reveal a Messinian detrital body (CU unit) of 625 metres maximum thickness at the foot of the margin, accumulating at the mouths of the principal canyons. Its form, facies and extension assimilate it to clastic fans, fed by subaerial erosion linked to the MSC. The relative geometry of CU and the Messinian units MU and UU deposited in the deep basin give indications to their chronostratigraphic relations. The deposition of the CU unit is posterior to the basal part of the mobile unit consisting of halite (MU), but contemporary to its top. These results agree with the recent scenarii, which propose that the precipitation of MU in the basin began early, during the lowering of the sea level, and ended at a low level during the MSC [Blanc, 2000; Martin et al., 2001; Sage et al., 2005; Ryan, 2009]. The UU unit surmounts MU and is subdivided into two sub-units with perceptibly different seismic facies : UU1 at the base and UU2 at the summit. UU1 could correspond to a unit containing more halite and/or more clastic material than UU2. The UU1 sub-unit could be partially contemporary to the CU unit. Concerning salt tectonics and its markers, three structural provinces have been evidenced in the sector of study, respectively : an upslope domain in extension (normal faults), an intermediary domain in translation (tabular MU) and a downslope domain in contraction (salt diapirs). These domains are directly linked to the gravity spreading and/or gliding of the brittle sedimentary cover formed by the CU, UU and Plio-Quatenary units and of the mobile level, MU. In the study area, a close relation between the distribution and thickness of CU and salt tectonics has additionally been evidenced at the mouths of the large Messinian canyons, being best expressed where CU is thick.
EISSN: 1777-5817

hal-00622998
https://hal-brgm.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00622998
DOI : 10.2113/gssgfbull.182.2.181

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Wiley
Résumé : International audience
Most of the Mediterranean coastal porous aquifers are intensively exploited. Because of climatic and anthropogenic effects, understanding the physical and geological controls on groundwater distribution and flow dynamics in such aquifers is crucial. This study presents the results of a structural investigation of a system located along the coastline of the Gulf of Lions (NW Mediterranean). A key aspect of this study relies on an onshore-offshore integrated approach combining outcrops, seismic profiles, and borehole data analysis. This multidisciplinary approach provides constraints on pore-fluid salinity distribution and stratigraphic organization, which are crucial in assessing the modes of groundwater/seawater exchanges. Onshore, Lower Pliocene deposits dip gently seaward. They are unconformably overlain by Holocene clays in the lagoons. Offshore the Pliocene deposits either outcrop at the seabed or are buried below nonconsolidated sands infilling paleo-valleys. Beneath the lido, the groundwater salinity distribution consists of salty pore water, overlying fresher pore water. Active circulation of groundwater masses is inferred from the geophysical results. In particular, offshore outcrops and paleo-valleys may play an important role in salt water intrusion.
ISSN: 0017-467X

halsde-00866825
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/halsde-00866825
DOI : 10.1111/j.1745-6584.2012.01011.x

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : Nearshore bars are generally present on sandy coasts and play a significant role in wave breaking and sediment exchange between beach and shoreface. The study area is located on the Languedoc-Roussillon coast in the Gulf of Lions (southern part of the French Mediterranean coast). This microtidal environment is classified as a wave-dominated coast. The sand coast displays different bar systems (single or multiple; straight or crescentic). The alongshore variability of bar morphology in the nearshore zone was investigated in August 2009 during one week, using a topo-bathymetric LIDAR data set (300 km(2)). LIDAR makes it possible to cover a large area in a very short time with a high resolution. The topo-bathymetric LIDAR offers the added benefit of morphological information about the beach-sea transition in very shallow water (below I in), data often difficult if not impossible to obtain with traditional techniques. The purpose of this paper is 1) to depict the distribution of bars and their characteristics along the 180 km coast of the Gulf of Lions; 2) to update the classifications of sand bars typologies in Languedoc-Roussillon; 3) to pay particular attention to the description of the intricate inner system. Globally, cross-shore distribution of subtidal morphologies is characterized by both an outer and an inner system. The outer system is crescent-shaped in the south and straight in the northern part with a distinctive regional delimitation. The inner system comprises an inner bar and, near the coast, a complex fluctuating bar called Low Bar Beach (LBB). Several intermediate states were identified and added to the new classification proposed in this paper. These results clearly emphasize the importance of LIDAR technology for a better understanding of bar behaviour and single and/or multi-bar beach organisation.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783187
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783187