Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation (CERF) Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
Current profiles
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01122783
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01122783

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The sinking of the Prestige tanker (November, 2002) spilled over 64000 tons of heavy fuel oil. The Prestige oil spill (POS) affected approximately 1000 km of coast belonging to Portugal, France and Spain and more than 600 sandy beaches were polluted along the Atlantic coast of Spain. Since POS, yearly surveys of two oiled sandy beaches (Galicia, NW Spain) have provided evidences regarding the oil pollution behavior and the influence of beach morphodynamics on the dynamics of the contamination. The analysis of wave climate, the extracted suction cores and the detected oil from 2004 and 2009 fieldworks have allowed to promote a conceptual model of the influence of beach morphodynamics on the first steps of an oil spill and to establish the effects on the long-term oil pollution
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783182
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783182

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00905651
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00905651

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc.
Résumé : International audience
Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neapspring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.
ICS 2016 Sydney
Sydney, Australia

hal-01254465
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465
DOI : 10.2112/SI75-075.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.
ISSN: 0749-0208
Szczecin, Poland

hal-00767593
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00767593

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : Special Issue 65 - International Coastal Symposium Volume 1
International audience
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01429044
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01429044
DOI : 10.2112/SI65-117.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The present work concerns cuspate spits: slightly symmetrical geomorphic features growing along the shoreline in shallow waters. We develop a new formulation for the dynamics of cuspate spits. Our approach relies on classical paradigms such as a conservation law to the shoreface scale and an explicit formula for alongshore sediment transport. We derive a non-linear diffusion equation and a fully explicit solution for the growth of cuspate spits. From this general expression, we found interesting applications to quantify shoreline dynamics in the presence of cuspate spits. In particular, we point out a simple method for the datation of a cuspate spit given a limited number of input parameters. Furthermore, we develop a method to quantify the mean alongshore diffusivity along a shoreline perturbed by well-defined cuspate spits of known sizes. Finally, we introduce a formal relationship between the geometric characteristics (amplitude, length) of cuspate spits, which reproduce the self-similarity of these geomorphic features.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01234952
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01234952
DOI : 10.2112/SI70-009.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
The ichthyofauna of the Manche-à-Eau mangrove lagoon was regularly sampled in 2002 with a fixed net at seven stations during 4 months corresponding to two hydrological seasons. Physicochemical variables (depth, temperature, salinity, dissolved oxygen, pH) and population descriptors (species and family richness, density and biomass) were measured. The Whitefield and the well-being indexes were calculated to appreciate species equilibrium. Canonical correspondence analysis and generalized linear models were used to link species assemblages to physicochemical variables and to search for a special link with salinity. A total of 30,733 individuals belonging to 34 species and 23 families were collected. The Gerreidae, Clupeidae, Engraulidae, Scianidae, and Sparidae represented almost 98% of the total number of individuals. Our results show that organization of the fish assemblages in the lagoon is poorly dependent on salinity, whereas dissolved oxygen, temperature, and pH could have a stronger role. Looking at response curves to salinity change, most fishes species appeared to be visitors, either temporarily present or regular migrators. Only a few species compose the year-round resident population. They have a high patrimonial value and could be considered bioindicator species for long-term studies (e.g., of global change and natural or anthropogenic disturbances). The Euclidean distance and biomass variables were not useful descriptors of confinement and biological zonation in the lagoon, whereas the negative gradient of specific richness, number of individuals, Whitefield index, and index of well-being better described confinement. On the basis of these last parameters, biological zonation in the Manche-à- Eau lagoon was established and is provided.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00755285
https://hal.univ-antilles.fr/hal-00755285
DOI : 10.2112/06-0804.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : Nearshore bars are generally present on sandy coasts and play a significant role in wave breaking and sediment exchange between beach and shoreface. The study area is located on the Languedoc-Roussillon coast in the Gulf of Lions (southern part of the French Mediterranean coast). This microtidal environment is classified as a wave-dominated coast. The sand coast displays different bar systems (single or multiple; straight or crescentic). The alongshore variability of bar morphology in the nearshore zone was investigated in August 2009 during one week, using a topo-bathymetric LIDAR data set (300 km(2)). LIDAR makes it possible to cover a large area in a very short time with a high resolution. The topo-bathymetric LIDAR offers the added benefit of morphological information about the beach-sea transition in very shallow water (below I in), data often difficult if not impossible to obtain with traditional techniques. The purpose of this paper is 1) to depict the distribution of bars and their characteristics along the 180 km coast of the Gulf of Lions; 2) to update the classifications of sand bars typologies in Languedoc-Roussillon; 3) to pay particular attention to the description of the intricate inner system. Globally, cross-shore distribution of subtidal morphologies is characterized by both an outer and an inner system. The outer system is crescent-shaped in the south and straight in the northern part with a distinctive regional delimitation. The inner system comprises an inner bar and, near the coast, a complex fluctuating bar called Low Bar Beach (LBB). Several intermediate states were identified and added to the new classification proposed in this paper. These results clearly emphasize the importance of LIDAR technology for a better understanding of bar behaviour and single and/or multi-bar beach organisation.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783187
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783187