Éditeur(s) : Yale University
Résumé : Sea-surface temperature images of the coastal upwelling regions off Northwest Africa show that the core of upwelling is sometimes located far from the coast. This has been documented in three regions that share a common feature, namely a wide and shallow continental shelf. This upwelling feature plays a key role in the ecology of the Canary Current System. It creates an innerfront which provides retention for biological material, e.g. fish eggs and larvae, in the highly productive nearshore environment. An analytical model has been developed based on a two dimensional extension of Ekman's solution. The linear and steady response of a homogeneous ocean forced by an upwelling-favorable wind provides a mechanism for the upwelling separation from the coast. The merging of the surface and bottom Ekman layers induces a very weak cross-shore circulation and a "kinematic barrier" for the Ekman transport divergence. In the case of an alongshore wind, the barrier is located near the isobath h ≈ 0.4D, where D is the thickness of Ekman layers. This yields an upwelling cell which is essentially concentrated in the region 0.5D < h < 1.25D, with upwelling occurring preferentially near the isobath h ≈ 0.6D. It turns out that the cross-shore width of upwelling scales with D/S, the ratio of Ekman depth to bottom topographic slope. The application of this solution to real bathymetric profiles rationalizes, not only the offshore upwelling observations in Northwest Africa, but also the influence of topography on the cross-shelf structure of a wind-driven coastal upwelling. The model also quantifies the effect of the cross-shore wind component showing how it drives the nearshore pressure gradient adjustment and how it affects the upwelling. A linear numerical experiment reproduces the theoretical steady solution, thereby allowing investigation of the transient regime. Relaxation of the hypothesis in the numerical model validates the linear assumption of the theory and then allows investigation of the sensitivity to friction parameterizations and the influence of stratification. The latter leads to an "oscillation" of the upwelling cell with seaward migration driven by outcropping and homogeneization of the water column, and, coastal incursion driven by a "boundary layers splitting" process caused by shoreward advection of the isopycnal dome and stratification of the inner shelf.
Journal of Marine Research (Yale University), 2008-09 , Vol. 66 , N. 5 , P. 589-616

Droits : 2008 Yale University
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/2008/publication-6334.pdf
DOI:10.1357/002224008787536790
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00000/6334/

Éditeur(s) : Elsevier Science Bv
Résumé : In this study, the Capbreton canyon head, just off the coast, is investigated using high-resolution multibeam bathymetry datasets, sediment samples and numerical modeling. The HR bathymetry analysis reveals a morphological connection between the longshore trough and the head of the canyon. The analysis of recent sediment samples shows a clear correlation between the sediment of the canyon head and that of the nearshore. Hydrodynamic modeling (a coupled wave-flow model) shows that for high-energy waves, the rotational nature of surf-zone circulation reverses and wave-induced currents have the potential to transport large quantities of nearshore sands toward the canyon head. All these arguments support the assumption that the canyon head captures a part of the sand transported by longshore drift. Over the 15 years of observation (1998–2013), time-lapse bathymetry shows that the floor of the canyon head and one lateral gully network experienced significant morphological reworking. In terms of hazards, despite this strong activity, the position of the canyon head and the profile of its longitudinal slope remained stable and appears as a comforting factor. However, the activity of unusual lateral erosions needs to be monitored.
Marine Geology (0025-3227) (Elsevier Science Bv), 2014-05 , Vol. 351 , P. 1-12

Droits : 2014 Elsevier B.V. All rights reserved.
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29118/27524.pdf
DOI:10.1016/j.margeo2014.03.001
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00180/29118/

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Public Library of Science
Résumé : International audience
While the fire coral Millepora platyphylla is an important component of Indo-Pacific reefs,where it thrives in a wide range of environments, the ecological and biological processesdriving its distribution and population structure are not well understood. Here, we quantifiedthis species' population structure in five habitats with contrasting hydrodynamic regimes inMoorea, French Polynesia; two in the fore reef: mid and upper slopes, and three in thelagoon: back, fringing and patch reefs. A total of 3651 colonies of fire corals were mappedand measured over 45,000 m2 of surveyed reef. Due to the species' sensitivity to fragmentationin response to strong water movement, hydrodynamic conditions (e.g. waves, pass andlagoonal circulation) corresponded to marked differences in colony size distributions, morphologyand recruitment dynamics among habitats. The size structure varied among reefhabitats with higher proportions of larger colonies in calm nearshore reefs (fringing andpatch reefs), while populations were dominated by smaller colonies in the exposed forereefs. The highest densities of fire corals were recorded in fore reef habitats (0.12±0.20 n.m-2) where the proportion of recruits and juveniles was higher at mid slope populations(49.3%) than on the upper slope near where waves break (29.0%). In the latter habitat, mostcolonies grew as vertical sheets on encrusting bases making them more vulnerable to colonyfragmentation, whereas fire corals were encrusting or massive in all other habitats. Thelowest densities of M. platyphylla occurred in lagoonal habitats (0.02±0.04 n.m-2) characterizedby a combination of low water movement and other physical and biological stressors.This study reports the first evidence of population structure of fire corals
ISSN: 1932-6203

hal-01561659
https://hal-univ-perp.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01561659
https://hal-univ-perp.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01561659/document
https://hal-univ-perp.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01561659/file/millepora%20platyphylla.pdf
DOI : 10.1371/journal.pone.0173513

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.
ISSN: 0749-0208
Szczecin, Poland

hal-00767593
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00767593

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically shearedcurrent and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic fieldcampaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season.The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and byco-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of fieldobservations shown seaward directed circulation with onshore component close to the air/sea surface whose intensityvaries according to incoming wave conditions. Forth, vertical shear increase when breaking happen close to sensorlocation and orientation of mean circulation depend on wind direction.
35th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Antalya, Turkey

hal-01426582
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426582

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : The Gulf of Aigues-Mortes (NW Mediterranean Sea) is a midshelf zone whose scale is an intermediate between the nearshore scale (0–10 m depth) and the coastal scale (including the whole continental shelf). Its hydrodynamics is investigated for the first time. ADCP, CTD and thermosalinograph data were collected during three short cruises (HYGAM; March 6–7, 20–21, April 5–6, 2005). They were scheduled approximately every 15 days to sample the gulf circulation under different weather conditions. Moreover, the cruise data were used to validate the Symphonie model, a 3D primitive equations circulation model. The circulation features displayed by in situ data were well reproduced by Symphonie. A downscaling modelling approach was implemented, the largest scale being obtained by the replay of the MFSTEP regional model of the North-Western Mediterranean Sea. The analysis, closely coupling in situ measurements and model results, provides information that would not have been obtained using data separately. The great variability of the oceanic circulation at this scale is well evidenced. Winds are the main forces, not only locally but also at a larger scale. North winds generate coherent structures interacting with the general Mediterranean circulation. The explanation of the induced currents is then not straightforward, some of them being, for example, northward. South and southeast winds reinforce the sloping surface, the latter allowing the geostrophic equilibrium with longshore currents. This study, focused on the end of winter 2004–2005, also enhances the heat fluxes from offshore to nearshore, as well as the initiation of shelf dense waters. The knowledge of the midshelf oceanic circulation is then applied to run a numerical experiment which describes both the dispersion of a fictive contaminant from a point S (at the centre of the GAM), and evaluates the risk of contamination of the beaches along the GAM shores.
ISSN: 0278-4343

hal-00196620
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00196620
DOI : 10.1016/j.csr.2007.06.006

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : The wave-dominated beach barrier of Villeneuve-Lès-Maguelone extends between Palavas and Frontignan (Gul f of Lions, northernmost Me diterranean Sea), along a slightly natural sandy protected area char acterized by typical and well-expressed morphologies. In the nearshore, the sea bottom shows one or two approximately rectilinear sand bars. In 2010-2011, we pe rformed a 6 month-long monitoring (autumn 2010/late spring 2011) of a 500 meter-long se gment along this sand barrier. We used RTK D-GPS offering centimeter resolution to acquire sets of elevation data on the beach and the upper shoreface. The study is innovative because a full morphologic monitoring was performed each time the wave/ wind conditions changed significantly. These changes were tracked in real-time thanks to a set of hydrodynamic equipments deployed at sea, including well-known DREAL buoys. We identify from well- documented data: (1) a beach reconstruction cycle at the shorelin e after a moderate storm event (wave height at 3-4 m) and (2) how a sand bar in the nearshore migrates to the shoreline and drives the shoreline shift.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854402
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854402
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.023-C

Éditeur(s) : University of Miami
Résumé : Deployment of anchored FADs has opened large pelagic resources to smallscale fisheries, which usually operate nearshore. The main difficulties in using FADs for fishing have now been identified. It concerns principally the design of FADs, their location, and also the type of management and exploitation. During the initial phase of FAD development, particular problems are mentioned, namely voluntary deterioration of the devices, marketing of the catches ... FADs exploitation in the area can still he optimised. The impact of FADs densities and locations (depth, distance from shore) on the concentration offish resources or on fisheryproduction is not established. Environmental impact of FADs is not weIl evaluated either. We would like to implement a workshop to facilitate data exchanges and coordination ofresearch programs between nearby countries.
Le DCP (Dispositif de Concentration de Poissons) ancré est un moyen pour les pêcheurs artisans côtiers d'exploiter les ressources pélagiques du large généralement peu accessibles aux embarcations à faible rayon d'action. Les principales difficultés rencontrées pour le développement de la pêche à l'aide de DCP ont pu être identifiées. Elles portent sur la conception des DCP, leur localisation ainsi que sur leur mode de gestion et d'exploitation. Au cours de la phase initiale du développement des DCP, des difficultés particulières sont mentionnées : détériorations volontaires des dispositifs, mévente des prises, ... L'exploitation des DCP dans la région peut être optimisée. L'effet de la densité des DCP et de leur localisation (profondeur, distance à la côte, ... ), sur les concentrations de poissons ou sur les prises des professionnels, n'est pas connu. L'impact environnemental des DCP est encore mal apprécié. L'objectif de cette présentation est de proposer la mise en place d'un groupe de travail destiné à faciliter les échanges de données et la coordination de programmes de recherche entre pays.
Proceedings - Gulf and Caribbean Fisheries Institute, University of Miami (0072-9019) (University of Miami), 2002 , Vol. 53 , P. 177-190

Droits : info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00114/22488/20169.pdf
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00114/22488/

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The sandy coasts of Languedoc-Roussillon are a zone vulnerable to erosion and flooding. These hazards are generally associated with a combination of natural factors such as waves, wind, rising sea levels and the importance of sediment supply, and are therefore worsened during storms. For the management of such risks, a better knowledge of the hydrodynamic phenomena occuring from the surf zone through to the coastal scale is essential. This need led to the development of a numerical modelling platform consisting of the 3D ocean circulation model Symphonie, usually dedicated to regional and coastal scales, which was modified to include the wave forcing, modeled by the WaveWatch III or Swan models. Using this platform the entire littoral and coastal regions can be accurately represented. The model was tested in several academic cases. Measurements on the barred beach of Sète during the winter of 2008-2009 served to refine the model, which is able to successfully reproduce the characteristics of the currents in coastal areas, drifts or rip currents over more complex bathymetries and also the vertical profiles of currents. To validate the model on the inner-shelf, we compared the simulations with measurements taken during a winter storm in 2004 around the mouth of the Têt river, as well as during storms in 2007 and 2008 in the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes. Currents are generally well reproduced. However, the scope of wave action seems limited to a depth of 30m. The characteristics of our model allow a good reproduction of the currents at all scales and the 3D nature of the model permits a more precise calculation of the shear stress and bottom current responsible, respectively, for the suspension and advection of sediments.
Le littoral sableux du Languedoc-Roussillon est un système vulnérable aux risques d'érosion et de submersion. Ces aléas sont liés à la conjonction des facteurs naturels que sont les vagues, vent, élévation du niveau de la mer et apports sédimentaires et sont donc aggravés en période de tempête. En vue d'une gestion des risques, une meilleure connaissance des phénomènes hydrodynamiques de l'échelle littorale à l'échelle côtière est essentielle. Ce travail a conduit à la réalisation d'une plateforme de modélisation numérique composée du modèle de circulation océanique 3D Symphonie, traditionnellement dédié aux échelles régionales et côtières, qui a été modifié pour inclure le forçage par les vagues, modélisées par les modèles Wavewatch III ou Swan, et ainsi étendre sa validité au littoral. Le modèle a été testé sur des cas académiques littoraux. Des mesures sur la plage à double barres de Sète pendant l'hiver 2008-2009, ont également servi à parfaire le modèle qui reproduit ainsi avec succès les caractéristiques des courants en zone littorale : la dérive, les courants sagittaux sur des bathymétries plus complexes et les profils verticaux des courants. Pour valider le modèle à des échelles plus côtières, nous avons confronté ses résultats à des mesures réalisées pendant une tempête hivernale en 2004 aux alentours de l'embouchure de la Têt, mais également sur des tempêtes de 2007 et 2008 dans le Golfe d'Aigues-Mortes. Les courants sont globalement bien reproduits. Les zones d'action des vagues semblent limitées aux zones de profondeur inférieure à 30 m. Notre modèle autorise une reproduction correcte des courants à toutes les échelles et sa nature 3D permet un calcul plus précis de la tension de cisaillement de fond et du courant près du fond, responsables respectivement de la mise en suspension et de l'advection des sédiments.
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405

tel-00680405
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405v2/document
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405/file/2011_MICHAUD.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
We have discovered in a marine core, located 20 km east of the Coastal Range of Taiwan at the top of a 1200 m deep submarine high, sheltered from rivers discharges and gravitational flows, a 23 cm-thick anomalous sequence topped with broken bivalves and wood fragments. Based on radiocarbon dating, we distinguish five sub-events within ∼ 100 yrs, about 3000 years ago. The oldest four sub-events are interpreted as the record of local submarine landslides, likely triggered by clustered earthquakes that are common in this tectonically active area. The last event including shells and wood has a different origin. Despite the high level of climatic and tectonic recent activity, no comparable event has been observed at the same site since that time, making it unique during the last 3.75 ka. Hydrodynamical modeling stimulated with a set of submarine landslide-triggered tsunami sources and combined with the regional oceanic circulation dominated by the Kuroshio Current, allow us to better constrain the transport paths of the suspended material, the expected run-up at the coast, and ultimately the trigger and source that best fit our observations. The Kuroshio Current appears as a strong constraint that generally prevents cross-shore transport of suspended material even during a major tsunami. Since the largest aerial debris flow observed along the east coast of Taiwan during the last 4 ka was synchronous with the marine deposit, our preferred scenario starts with the occurrence of four distinct large earthquakes within less than a century, triggering both submarine and aerial landslides in the study area. Then, a giant typhoon reworked the nearshore material as well as the slided material stored upstream resulting in a debris flow. It deeply modified the surface current, allowing the wood debris and shells to fastly reach the core site.
ISSN: 0040-1951

hal-01467640
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01467640
DOI : 10.1016/j.tecto.2015.11.001

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Quasi-3D model SHORECIRC simulates circulation on simple nearshore domains. It is modified in order to handle realistic bathymetries : beaches with complex shoreline and/or emerged structures. Added improvements are validated against other models and measurements on various configurations. New SHORECIRC version is then applied to the study of the circulation dynamics of Leucate, a sandy beach of Languedoc- Roussillon (France) with crescentic bars.
Le modèle numérique de circulation quasi-tridimensionnel SHORECIRC, initialement prévu pour fonctionner sur des bathymétries simples, a été modifié afin de pouvoir prendre en compte les caractéristiques complexes des bathymétries réalistes de la zone littorale : trait de côte irrégulier et présence d'objets émergés. Les modifications apportées ont ´été validées par comparaison avec des résultats d'autres modèles numériques et avec des données mesurées sur plusieurs configurations. Enfin, le modèle modifié a été appliqué à l'étude de la dynamique de la circulation sur une plage sableuse à barres en festons (Plage de Leucate, Languedoc-Roussillon, FR).
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713

tel-00438713
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713/document
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713/file/thesebujan.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
Periodically harvested closures (PHCs) are small fisheries closures with objectives such as sustaining fisheriesand conserving biodiversity and have become one of the most common forms of nearshore marine managementin the Western Pacific. Although PHCs can provide both short-termconservation and fisheries benefits, their potentialas a long-term management strategy remains unclear. Through empirical assessment of a single harvestevent in each of five PHCs, we determined whether targeted fishes that differ in their vulnerability to fishing recoveredto pre-harvest conditions (the state prior to last harvest) and demonstrated post-harvest recovery benefitsafter 1 year of re-closure. For low and moderately vulnerable species, two PHCs provided significant preharvestbenefits and one provided significant post-harvest recovery benefits, suggesting a contribution to longer-term sustainability. PHCs with a combination of high compliance and longer closing times are more likelyto provide fisheries benefits and recover from harvest events, however, no benefits were observed across anyPHCs for highly vulnerable species. We recommend PHCs have longer closure periods before being harvestedand species that are highly vulnerable to fishing (e.g. large species of; grouper,wrasse and parrotfish) are avoidedduring harvests to avoid overexploitation and increase the sustainability of small-scale fisheries.
ISSN: 0006-3207

hal-01381316
https://hal-univ-perp.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01381316
DOI : 10.1016/j.biocon.2016.08.038

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : Nearshore bars are generally present on sandy coasts and play a significant role in wave breaking and sediment exchange between beach and shoreface. The study area is located on the Languedoc-Roussillon coast in the Gulf of Lions (southern part of the French Mediterranean coast). This microtidal environment is classified as a wave-dominated coast. The sand coast displays different bar systems (single or multiple; straight or crescentic). The alongshore variability of bar morphology in the nearshore zone was investigated in August 2009 during one week, using a topo-bathymetric LIDAR data set (300 km(2)). LIDAR makes it possible to cover a large area in a very short time with a high resolution. The topo-bathymetric LIDAR offers the added benefit of morphological information about the beach-sea transition in very shallow water (below I in), data often difficult if not impossible to obtain with traditional techniques. The purpose of this paper is 1) to depict the distribution of bars and their characteristics along the 180 km coast of the Gulf of Lions; 2) to update the classifications of sand bars typologies in Languedoc-Roussillon; 3) to pay particular attention to the description of the intricate inner system. Globally, cross-shore distribution of subtidal morphologies is characterized by both an outer and an inner system. The outer system is crescent-shaped in the south and straight in the northern part with a distinctive regional delimitation. The inner system comprises an inner bar and, near the coast, a complex fluctuating bar called Low Bar Beach (LBB). Several intermediate states were identified and added to the new classification proposed in this paper. These results clearly emphasize the importance of LIDAR technology for a better understanding of bar behaviour and single and/or multi-bar beach organisation.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783187
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783187

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The present work concerns cuspate spits: slightly symmetrical geomorphic features growing along the shoreline in shallow waters. We develop a new formulation for the dynamics of cuspate spits. Our approach relies on classical paradigms such as a conservation law to the shoreface scale and an explicit formula for alongshore sediment transport. We derive a non-linear diffusion equation and a fully explicit solution for the growth of cuspate spits. From this general expression, we found interesting applications to quantify shoreline dynamics in the presence of cuspate spits. In particular, we point out a simple method for the datation of a cuspate spit given a limited number of input parameters. Furthermore, we develop a method to quantify the mean alongshore diffusivity along a shoreline perturbed by well-defined cuspate spits of known sizes. Finally, we introduce a formal relationship between the geometric characteristics (amplitude, length) of cuspate spits, which reproduce the self-similarity of these geomorphic features.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01234952
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01234952
DOI : 10.2112/SI70-009.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
The western margin of the Gulf of Mexico (Veracruz State, Mexico) displays an extensive Neogene gravitational system, whereby the Neogene siliciclastic sediments are detached from underlying Mesozoic carbonates along decollement surface in Oligocene underpressured clays. Rapidly subsiding half-grabens develop above the footwall associated with major listric faults, whereas mini-basins develop in the deepest parts of the slope, in conjunction with the growth of west-verging compressional features. Between the high-angle normal faults in the west and the thrust anticlines in the east, a wide roll-over structure has grown progressively, resulting in a major topographic break in the morphology of the slope profile. Coupled forward kinematic modelling (Thrustpack) and stratigraphic modelling (Dionisos), calibrated against seismic profiles and two key nearshore wells, have been applied to representative regional transects across the margin, in order to quantify the vertical (subsidence) and horizontal (gravitational) deformations, and to discuss the impact of various key parameters on the distribution of debris flow depositions. These simulations are compared with data from distant ODP wells and discussed in the scope of current exploration strategies in both the US and Mexican portions of the Gulf of Mexico basin.
ISSN: 0040-1951

hal-00424595
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00424595
DOI : 10.1016/j.tecto.2008.06.017