Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : SUBDUNE v0.6 is a very preliminary version of an exploratory model designed tocompute the sea level to the shoreline, combining the effects of various physics, from run-up to tides. It aims at providing an easy-to-use and quick way to estimate water elevation to the beach, assuming morphology is known. Combined with accurate beachdata, such as LIDAR, this engineering tool may provide with end-users an efficient way to quantify submersion.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854170
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854170
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.022-B

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Barrier island hydro-morphodynamics driven by typhoon events are the major concern of the project KUNSHEN (2011-2014). It aims at providing for a deep understanding of the peculiar dynamics of sand barriers where extreme events such as typhoons have a significant impact. We present the campaigns and the protocols achieved and planned in the project, on the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, Cigu Lagoon, Tainan, Taiwan, from October 2011 to January 2012, during the winter storm season and during summer 2012 during the typhoon season. A set of current profilers are deployed along a cross shore transect at 7, 4 and 2 meters deep. On the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, 3 columns of 3 pressiometers are deployed to survey the submersion. In the same time, morphological surveys are performed on the sand barrier with DGPS to analyse any change in the shoreline position, the beach slope, and the dynamics of sand beach features. A very preliminary analysis on these on-going field surveys suggests that the word "extreme" refers more to the consequence of the forcing on the sand barrier than the intensity of the forcing itself. The strategy developed in this first step will be refined to survey the next typhoon season, from May 2012 to October 2012.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854411
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854411
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.034-M

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : The wave-dominated beach barrier of Villeneuve-Lès-Maguelone extends between Palavas and Frontignan (Gul f of Lions, northernmost Me diterranean Sea), along a slightly natural sandy protected area char acterized by typical and well-expressed morphologies. In the nearshore, the sea bottom shows one or two approximately rectilinear sand bars. In 2010-2011, we pe rformed a 6 month-long monitoring (autumn 2010/late spring 2011) of a 500 meter-long se gment along this sand barrier. We used RTK D-GPS offering centimeter resolution to acquire sets of elevation data on the beach and the upper shoreface. The study is innovative because a full morphologic monitoring was performed each time the wave/ wind conditions changed significantly. These changes were tracked in real-time thanks to a set of hydrodynamic equipments deployed at sea, including well-known DREAL buoys. We identify from well- documented data: (1) a beach reconstruction cycle at the shorelin e after a moderate storm event (wave height at 3-4 m) and (2) how a sand bar in the nearshore migrates to the shoreline and drives the shoreline shift.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854402
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854402
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.023-C

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
Forecasting of sea-state characteristics, with warning time of a few hours, appears a necessity in Operational Oceanography. linking sophisticated marine monitoring systems with forecasting modeling tools. In this paper, instead of using conventional numerical models, a Takagi-Sugeno-rule-based Fuzzy Inference System (FIS) was developed aiming at forecasting wave parameters based on the wind speed and direction, and the lagged-wave characteristics. Initial and final antecedent fuzzy membership functions were identified using the subtractive clustering method. The model was applied on the wind and wave dataset recorded in years 2000-2006 by an oceanographic buoy deployed in the Aegean Sea. The model showed perfect fit for the training period (2000-2005; 12,274 data points), and expanded its hindcasting ability during 2006 (1044 data points), as the verification part of the series. Model results, for a lead time of 3 h, showed good agreement between the predicted and the observed significant wave height (RMSE=0.216) and zero-up-crossing period (RMSE=0.315). According to other model performance criteria, the fuzzy model slightly underpredicted both wave characteristics (the linear regression slope was 0.911 for wave height and 0.788 for wave period), and reduced its forecasting ability at higher prediction intervals (+6 to + 12 h). Overall, model results illustrated that the developed FIS could serve as a valuable tool for the operational prediction of wave characteristics in Northern Aegean Sea, through the utilization of the POSEIDON network.
ISSN: 0029-8018

hal-00456020
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00456020
DOI : 10.1016/j.oceaneng.2009.08.016