Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The field campaign on the Sète coast deployed during the winter 2009 was used to understand the hydrodynamics on a double barred beach in the surf zone during storm periods. The large set of measurements collected at several position and depth were also useful to improve the 3D circulation model Symphonie that takes into account the atmospherics and wave forcings. Once implemented on the beach and supplemented with some additional parameterizations concerning the roller effects and the bottom friction, the model was tuned and validated in the surf zone. The role of the different processes was then analysed. Thus, the roller and the bottom friction are of primary importance in the dynamics of the circulation. Thanks to its 3D nature and once associated with a sediment transport model and a morphodynamic model, Symphonie will offer a good representation of the sediment transport.
Coastal Dynamics 2013
Arcachon, France

hal-00855035
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00855035

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Geological Society of America
Résumé : International audience
Lakes are major depositional systems for which the related depositional processes have long been considered relatively simple. Breaking this statement, this study presents a detailed analysis of deposits in Lake Saint-Jean, the third largest natural lake in Québec. In addition to postglacial deltaic and coastal depositional systems fringing the lake, current-controlled features such as a large subaqueous prograding wedge and three sediment drifts have been identifi ed in its central portion based on two-dimensional (2-D) acoustic high-resolution subbottom profiles. The large subaqueous prograding wedge is a 4-km-long and up to 15-m-thick heterolithic shelf-like construction in the southeastern part of the lake. The three sediment drifts are 0.1–0.5-km-long and 2–5-mthick mud mounds distributed on the lake floor in the central portion of the lake. Diatom analyses and radiocarbon dating show that the development of these current-controlled features occurred during the lacustrine phase, after the disconnection with the postglacial marine Laflamme Gulf at 8.5 cal. k.y. B.P. Depositional facies show evidence of recurrent bottom-current activity. Related deposits alternate with pelagic sedimentation stages characterized by the settling of mud and biogenic accumulations. We investigated the origin of bottom currents using a numerical simulation (SYMPHONIE, an oceanographic model), with the aim of modeling wind-induced lake-scale water circulation. Simulations suggest that the subaqueous prograding wedge and the three sediment drifts result from wind-induced bottom currents generated by storm events having wind speed greater than 10 m s–1. Such strong winds are able to significantly affect sedimentation in the central portion of Lake Saint-Jean. Theresulting wind-induced sedimentary features were integrated into a refi ned lacustrine depositional model that summarizes the evolution of a group of water bodies referred to as “wind-driven water bodies.” This study applies a new tool for lake strata characterization and highlights the potential diffi cultyin differentiating them from marine deposits in the geological record.
ISSN: 0016-7606

insu-01184724
https://hal-insu.archives-ouvertes.fr/insu-01184724
DOI : 10.1130/B31145.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.
ISSN: 0749-0208
Szczecin, Poland

hal-00767593
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00767593

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : The wave-dominated beach barrier of Villeneuve-Lès-Maguelone extends between Palavas and Frontignan (Gul f of Lions, northernmost Me diterranean Sea), along a slightly natural sandy protected area char acterized by typical and well-expressed morphologies. In the nearshore, the sea bottom shows one or two approximately rectilinear sand bars. In 2010-2011, we pe rformed a 6 month-long monitoring (autumn 2010/late spring 2011) of a 500 meter-long se gment along this sand barrier. We used RTK D-GPS offering centimeter resolution to acquire sets of elevation data on the beach and the upper shoreface. The study is innovative because a full morphologic monitoring was performed each time the wave/ wind conditions changed significantly. These changes were tracked in real-time thanks to a set of hydrodynamic equipments deployed at sea, including well-known DREAL buoys. We identify from well- documented data: (1) a beach reconstruction cycle at the shorelin e after a moderate storm event (wave height at 3-4 m) and (2) how a sand bar in the nearshore migrates to the shoreline and drives the shoreline shift.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854402
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854402
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.023-C

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
The Maguelone shore extends along the northern coast of the Gulf of Lions, west of the Rhone Delta and east of high-gradient coastal streams that have provided most of the clastic sediments to the Gulf of Lions margin since the early Miocene. This 10 km-wide area is constituted by a small coastal watershed (15 km long) in low-lying carbonate hills, a kilometre-wide marsh, a sandy beach barrier and a shoreface experiencing local low sedimentation rates. This onshore-offshore transition zone is a key area to understand the relationships between erosion, by-pass, deposition and preservation processes. Unlike the neighbouring Rhone deposits that display numerous thick deltaic sequences related to a continuous sediment flux, the Maguelone shore exhibits peculiar sedimentary bodies. The analysis of about 250 km of new VHR seismic profiles acquired over the study area, 9 short cores and outcrops data allowed us to determine the three-dimensional high-resolution geometry of the coastal system tracts from Quaternary to present-day. This revealed dominant denudation processes in the Upstream catchments associated with the formation of incised valleys during Quaternary lowstands. In addition, this study investigates the erosion and deposition mechanisms controlled by littoral hydrodynamics that have been taken place on this shore since the last transgression. In particular, metre-high and hundreds of metre-long sandy bodies constructed by alongshore hydrodynamics were identified and their effect on the morphodynamics of the whole littoral system is discussed. The Maguelone shore can be used as an experimental study for onshore/offshore dynamics under the influence of microtidal wave/current hydrodynamics and very low river-derived sediment flux during a eustatic cycle. Geometry of system tracts across flood plain to shoreface is usually considered to be controlled by relative sea-level changes, and is successfully analysed with 2D sequence stratigraphy cross-shore models. It is observed that in areas like the Maguelone shore, traditional sequence stratigraphy methods might not be fully relevant and need to integrate alongshore hydrodynamical processes.
ISSN: 0025-3227

hal-00421060
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00421060
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2009.06.008

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Société géologique de France
Résumé : A study combining very high resolution seismic and sediment core data has been carried out on the Thau lagoon (Mediterranean coast, microtidal setting, SE France) in order to understand more clearly the dynamics and Holocene chronology of its closure through the different stages of its filling. One main seismic unit (U2) has been defined into the infill, above the rocky basement (U0) and a composite unit U1, which is interpreted as remnants of Pleistocene fluvial terraces or/and to early marine Holocene deposits. Unit U2, that reaches locally 9 m in thickness, rests conformably on U1 in the central part of the lagoon and onlaps U0 or U1 close to the edge of the lagoon. It is divided in two sub-units, U2-1 and U2-2. U2-2 rests paraconformably on U2-1 in the central part of the lagoon where the infill is the thickest, while a marked erosional unconformity is observed between U2-1 and U2-2 on topographic highs of the basement and on the seaward edge of the lagoon. A total of seven elementary sequences have been observed in U2-1 and U2-2.;According to core data, U2 consists in a series of mud-dominated sequences, with shell fragments dispersed at the base. The vertical distribution of the fauna into U2-1 and U2-2 reveals a lagoonal environment. However in U2-1, marine species are more abundant in the south of the lagoon. C-14 AMS dating provides three ages: similar to 6000 cal yr B.P. in the lower part of U2-1 on CAL1, 5400 cal yr B.P. just above the boundary between U2-1 and U2-2 on CAL4, similar to 3000 cal yr B.P. in the middle of U2-2 on CAL4.;A scenario to explain the lagoon infill stratigraphy and geometry is proposed. The beginning of the lagoon infill occurred with the initiation of the barrier construction, as soon as the sea-level rise slowed down significantly, i.e. between 7000-6000 yr B.P. The sediment-fill began into the back-barrier system, with a high rate of sedimentation for U2-1, according to the radiocarbon data. At 5400 yr B.P., the barrier is assumed to be totally closed leading to the deposition of the fully lagoonal U2-2 succession. The unconformity between U2-1 and U2-2 is interpreted as the result of a rapid landward retreat of the barrier. This severe retreat could be related to climate forcing and/or brutal change in sediment discharge driven by the Rhone River, which is the main sediment source of the longshore drift. In this scenario, the last sub-unit, U2-2, represents most of the late Holocene infill. In this framework, the elementary sequences observed in U2-2 could be related to high frequency climate changes of about 1000-1500 years periodicity according to C-14 dates.
EISSN: 1777-5817

hal-00486386
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00486386
DOI : 10.2113/gssgfbull.181.2.197

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : Nearshore bars are generally present on sandy coasts and play a significant role in wave breaking and sediment exchange between beach and shoreface. The study area is located on the Languedoc-Roussillon coast in the Gulf of Lions (southern part of the French Mediterranean coast). This microtidal environment is classified as a wave-dominated coast. The sand coast displays different bar systems (single or multiple; straight or crescentic). The alongshore variability of bar morphology in the nearshore zone was investigated in August 2009 during one week, using a topo-bathymetric LIDAR data set (300 km(2)). LIDAR makes it possible to cover a large area in a very short time with a high resolution. The topo-bathymetric LIDAR offers the added benefit of morphological information about the beach-sea transition in very shallow water (below I in), data often difficult if not impossible to obtain with traditional techniques. The purpose of this paper is 1) to depict the distribution of bars and their characteristics along the 180 km coast of the Gulf of Lions; 2) to update the classifications of sand bars typologies in Languedoc-Roussillon; 3) to pay particular attention to the description of the intricate inner system. Globally, cross-shore distribution of subtidal morphologies is characterized by both an outer and an inner system. The outer system is crescent-shaped in the south and straight in the northern part with a distinctive regional delimitation. The inner system comprises an inner bar and, near the coast, a complex fluctuating bar called Low Bar Beach (LBB). Several intermediate states were identified and added to the new classification proposed in this paper. These results clearly emphasize the importance of LIDAR technology for a better understanding of bar behaviour and single and/or multi-bar beach organisation.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783187
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783187