Éditeur(s) : Amer Geophysical Union
Résumé : Seismic noise is an indirect source of information on ocean waves. Using a model of noise generation and propagation, seismic stations can be separated into those that are mostly sensitive to local sea states, and those that integrate sources from a large oceanic area. The model also provides a classification of noise-generating sea states into three classes. The analysis of Central California seismic noise data, well correlated with local waves, reveals that class I events dominate in summer, caused by a single wind-sea system, and for which ocean wave spectral levels are proportional to seismic spectral levels to an exponent b similar or equal to 0.9. In winter, noise is dominated by class II generation, for which coastal reflection is important, with a wave spectral density roughly proportional to the seismic spectral density to an exponent b similar or equal to 0.7. Sporadic events of class III probably produce some of the strongest noise events in Central California and need to be properly screened. These events are caused by opposed wave systems that are usually the wind-sea and a swell. This noise classification can be used to improve on the correlation between measured and estimated wave heights(up to r = 0.93 for daily averages). For other locations, where remote oceanic sources are recorded, a significant wave height estimated from the seismic noise compares well with area-averaged satellite data or wave model results(r > 0.85 for daily averages). These analyses pave the way for quantitative uses of seismic records, including the reconstruction of past wave climates, and the calibration of wave hindcasts.
Journal Of Geophysical Research-oceans (0148-0227) (Amer Geophysical Union), 2012-05 , Vol. 117 , N. C05002 , P. 19 pp.

Droits : 2012 AGU
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00083/19443/17051.pdf
DOI:10.1029/2011JC007449
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00083/19443/

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc.
Résumé : International audience
Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neapspring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.
ICS 2016 Sydney
Sydney, Australia

hal-01254465
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465
DOI : 10.2112/SI75-075.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD European Geosciences Union
Résumé : International audience
We develop and implement a new method to take into account the impact of waves into the 3-D circulation model SYMPHONIE (Marsaleix et al., 2008, 2009a), following the simplified equations of Bennis et al. (2011) which use glm2z-RANS theory (Ardhuin et al., 2008b). These adiabatic equations are completed by additional parameterizations of wave breaking, bottom friction and wave-enhanced vertical mixing, making the forcing valid from the surf zone through to the open ocean. The wave forcing is performed by wave generation and propagation models WAVEWATCH III® (Tolman, 2008, 2009; Ardhuin et al., 2010) and SWAN (Booij et al., 1999). The model is tested and compared with other models for a plane beach test case, previously tested by Haas and Warner (2009) and Uchiyama et al. (2010). A comparison is also made with the laboratory measurements of Haller et al. (2002) of a barred beach with channels. Results fit with previous simulations performed by other models and with available observational data. Finally, a realistic case of energetic waves travelling over a coast of the Gulf of Lion (in the northwest of the Mediterranean Sea) for which currents are available at different depths as well as an accurate bathymetric database of the 0-10 m depth range, is then simulated. A grid nesting approach is used to account for the different forcings acting at different spatial scales. The simulation coupling the effects of waves and currents is successful to reproduce the powerful northward littoral drift in the 0-15 m depth zone. More precisely, two distinct cases are identified: when waves have a normal angle of incidence with the coast, they are responsible for complex circulation cells and rip currents in the surf zone, and when they travel obliquely, they generate a northward littoral drift. These features are more complicated than in the test cases, due to the complex bathymetry and the consideration of wind and non-stationary processes. Wave impacts in the inner shelf are less visible since wind and regional circulation seem to be the predominant forcings. Besides, a discrepancy between model and observations is noted at that scale, possibly linked to an underestimation of the wind stress. Lastly, this three-dimensional method allows a good representation of vertical current profiles and permits to calculate the shear stress associated with wave and current. Future work will focus on the combination with a sediment transport model.
ISSN: 1812-0806

hal-00766548
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548/document
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548/file/os-8-657-2012.pdf
DOI : 10.5194/osd-8-2417-2011

Éditeur(s) : American Geophysical Union
Résumé : Noise with periods 3 to 10 s, ubiquitous in seismic records, is expected to be mostly generated by pairs of ocean wave trains of opposing propagation directions with half the seismic frequency. Here we present the first comprehensive numerical model of microseismic generation by random ocean waves, including ocean wave reflections. Synthetic and observed seismic spectra are well correlated (r > 0.85). On the basis of the model results, noise generation events can be clustered in three broad classes: wind waves with a broad directional spectrum (class I), sea states with a significant contribution of coastal reflections (class II), and the interaction of two independent wave systems (class III). At seismic stations close to western coasts, noise generated by class II sources generally dominates, but it is intermittently outshined by the intense class III sources, limiting the reliability of seismic data as a proxy for storm climates. The modeled seismic noise critically depends on the damping of seismic waves. At some mid-ocean island stations, low seismic damping is necessary to reproduce the observed high level and smoothness of noise time series that result from a spatial integration of sources over thousands of kilometers. In contrast, some coastal stations are only sensitive to noise within a few hundreds of kilometers. This revelation of noise source patterns worldwide provides a wealth of information for seismic studies, wave climate applications, and new constraints on the possible directional distribution of wave energy.
Journal of Geophysical Research ( JGR ) - Oceans (0148-0227) (American Geophysical Union), 2011-09 , Vol. 116 , N. C09004 , P. 21 p.

Droits : 2011 by the American Geophysical Union
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00044/15531/12926.pdf
DOI:10.1029/2011JC006952
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00044/15531/

Éditeur(s) : Amer Geophysical Union
Résumé : We quantify, analyze, and characterize the frequency-dependent microseismic noise recorded by worldwide distributed seismic stations. Microseismic noise is generated through the interaction of ocean waves. It is the strongest ambient noise, and it is observed everywhere on Earth. We introduce a new approach which permits us to detect polarized signals in the time-frequency domain and which we use to characterize the microseismic noise. We analyze 7 years of continuous seismograms from the global GEOSCOPE network. Microseisms are dominated by Rayleigh waves, and we therefore focus on elliptically polarized signals. The polarized signals are detected in the time-frequency domain through a degree of polarization measure. We design polarization spectra and show that microseismic noise is more strongly polarized than noise in other frequency bands. This property is used to measure the directions of the polarized noise at individual stations as a function of time and frequency. Seasonal variations are found for the back azimuths and for the number of polarized signals at many stations. We show that the back azimuth directions are robust measurements that point toward the source areas computed from ocean wave models.
Geochemistry Geophysics Geosystems (1525-2027) (Amer Geophysical Union), 2011-07 , Vol. 12 , N. Q07014 , P. 14 p.

Droits : 2011. American Geophysical Union. All Rights Reserved.
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00041/15219/12713.pdf
DOI:10.1029/2011GC003661
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00041/15219/

Éditeur(s) : Elsevier Sci Ltd
Résumé : A multi-scale global hindcast of ocean waves is presented that covers the years 1994-2012, based on recently published parameterizations for wind sea and swell dissipation [Ardhuin, F., Rogers, E., Babanin, A., Filipot, J.-F., Magne, R., Roland, A., van der Westhuysen, A., Queffeulou, P., Lefevre, J.-M., Aouf, L., Collard, F., 2010. Semi-empirical dissipation source functions for wind-wave models: Part I. Definition, calibration and validation. J. Phys. Oceanogr. 40 (9), 1917-1941]. Results from this hindcast include traditional wave parameters, like the significant wave height and mean periods, and we particularly consider the accuracy of the results for phenomenal sea states, with significant heights above 14 m. Using unbiased winds, there is no evidence of a bias in wave heights even for this very high range. Various spectral moments were also validated, including the surface Stokes drift and mean square slopes that are relevant for wave-current interactions modelling and remote sensing, and also spectra of seismic noise sources. The estimation of these parameters is made more accurate by the new wave growth and dissipation parameterizations. Associated air-sea fluxes of momentum and energy are significantly different from what is obtained with the WAM-Cycle 4 parameterization, with a roughness that is practically a function of wind speed only. That particular output of the model does not appear very realistic and will require future adjustments of the generation and dissipation parameterizations.
Ocean Modelling (1463-5003) (Elsevier Sci Ltd), 2013-10 , Vol. 70 , P. 174-188

Droits : 2012 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00155/26582/25477.pdf
DOI:10.1016/j.ocemod.2012.12.001
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00155/26582/