Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : National audience
Des expériences dans un bassin de 30 m x 30 m ont été réalisées dans l'objectif de caractériser la dynamique d'un courant d'arrachement et les évolutions morphologiques associées. La plage de sable fin (diamètre médian 166 microns) couvrait la largeur du bassin (30 m en longshore ) pour un profil total de 20 m cross-shore . La formation de courants sagittaux a été forcée par une houle frontale (spectre de Jonswap) avec un déficit d'énergie au centre du bassin. Une séquence accrétive complète de plage intermédiaire à simple barre (selon classification de WRIGHT & SHORT, 1984) a été reproduite. La barre s'est progressivement tridimensionnalisée en forme de croissant puis s'est connectée au haut de plage avec la présence de deux chenaux profonds qui se sont ensuite comblés pour obtenir une plage à terrasse au bout de plusieurs dizaines d'heures. L'association des mesures hydrodynamiques et morphodynamiques montre que le comblement des chenaux est alimenté par le haut de plage.
XI èmes Journées Nationales Génie Côtier - Génie Civil
Sables d'Olonne, France

hal-00861953
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00861953

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Des techniques d'optimisation de formes sont utilisées dans des problèmes du Génie Côtier pour la protection des plages. En collaboration avec le bureau d'étude Bas-Rhône Languedoc ingénierie, un projet d'aménagement concret de la plage du Lido de Sète, utilisant des ouvrages immergés en géotextile, a été étudié. Des solutions optimales, visant à réduire la mise en suspension des sédiments, pour les structures de défenses ont été obtenues à partir d'un modèle hydrodynamique de propagation de houle. Une étude complémentaire à partir d'un modèle de circulation et des travaux expérimentaux en canal à houle permettent ensuite de valider les résultats optimaux numériques obtenus. Shape optimization techniques, focusing on coastal structures design, are used to solve coastal engineering problem. In collaboration with the Bas-Rhône Languedoc engineering Company, a actual development plan concerning the beach of the Lido of Sète has been studied. Optimal solutions, aimed at reducing sediments suspended, for defense structures have been obtained with a hydrodynamic water wave model. An additional study using a circulation model and experimental works in flume tend to validate optimal numerical results.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854031
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854031
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2008.025-I

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : International audience
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00905651
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00905651

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Le lido de Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone (Languedoc-Roussillon) est un archétype de littoral microtidal, dominé par la houle, en érosion, et largement affecté par la submersion marine lors des tempêtes. Les observations réalisées dans le cadre du Système d'Observation Littoral - Trait de Côte (SO LTC) concernent l'hydrodynamique et le transport sédimentaire dans l'avant-côte et la lagune. La tache d'observation MAGOBS (Observatoire Aresquiers-Maguelone-Palavas) de cet observatoire regroupe un dispositif instrumental automatisé composé de 30 points d'acquisition en temps réel entre 6 mètres de profondeur et le haut de plage (à terre) ainsi que dans la lagune. Le dispositif est opérationnel depuis mai 2011. Son déploiement a permis de déverrouiller les difficultés techniques liées à la mesure temps réel en zone littorale : choix du type des appareils de mesure, de la technologie embarquée, des cadences d'acquisition, résolution des questions du transfert de la donnée. Le dispositif produit 2 Tera-octets de données par an. Les données sont stockées sur un ensemble de serveurs dédiés. Les données sont mises en ligne sur le site du SO-LTC (www.soltc.org), immédiatement après premiers traitements et qualification. Elles commencent à être utilisées pour des calculs de niveau d'eau à la côte, et dansdes outils de prédiction des vagues et des niveaux à la côte associant mesure et modélisation.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854410
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854410
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.064-G

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Inter Research
Résumé : International audience
The main objective of the VULSACO (VULnerability of SAndy COasts to climate change and anthropic pressure) project was to investigate present day and potential future vulnerability of sandy coasts at the 2030 horizon, i.e. on a time scale related to climate variability. The method, based on a multidisciplinary approach bringing together geologists, geographers, physicists, social psychologists, engineers and stakeholders, was structured around 4 axes: field data analysis; numerical modelling; analysis of governance and stakeholder perceptions; and development of vulnerability indexes. This approach was designed to investigate vulnerability at a local scale and was applied to 4 contrasting beaches located in France: Sète Lido (Mediterranean Sea), Truc Vert and La Tresson beaches (Atlantic Ocean), and Dewulf (English Channel). The results focus on decadal and multi-annual beach trends at the Truc Vert beach site. There is almost no trend in beach volume at Truc Vert beach, although there is a variation in this parameter on a cycle of 2 to 3 yr, with variations related to wave energy and probably to indexes of climate variability. Numerical modelling identified the sensitivity of beach responses to changes in wave height and direction, especially in terms of subtidal morphology and the potential development of shoreline instability. Together with the observed offshore wave angle at the Biscay Buoy, these model results suggest that a potential change in wave angle due to climate variability could significantly modify the bars' morphology. The combination of data analysis and numerical modelling contributed to the development of vulnerability indexes designed for sandy coasts, which take into account climate-dependant variables such as waves. This allowed the differentiation of the sites in terms of vulnerability to erosion: Sète Lido and Truc Vert beach were the most and least vulnerable sites, respectively. These indexes help in identifying the dominant components of beach vulnerability, and provide potential for the study of how anthropogenic factors affect vulnerability. The study of stakeholder perceptions and decision-making with regard to climate-related risk also highlighted potential anthropogenic effects on beach vulnerability, and identified possible site-specific outcomes.
ISSN: 0936-577X

hal-00843946
https://hal-brgm.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00843946
DOI : 10.3354/cr01153

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD American Geophysical Union
Résumé : International audience
This study describes a laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed. Rip current characteristics over eight contrasting nature-like beach morphologies are investigated. The seabed varied from reasonably alongshore uniform to strongly alongshore nonuniform with crescentic patterns and bar-rip morphologies, representative of a full morphological down-state sequence. The same offshore shore-normal waves were generated by the wavemaker for the eight situations with the same mean water level to study the sensitivity of rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 30 to 60 min video run was used to track a large number of drifters released within the surf zone. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counterrotating cells and a relatively narrow offshore-directed jet varying from shore-normal to strongly skewed. Wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviations of flow intensity and direction provide high-resolution information on the spatial variability of rip current instabilities. Highly pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow is observed in the rip neck for well-developed bar-rip morphologies that turns into a weakly pulsating and highly directional variable rip current flow with decreasing beach alongshore nonuniformity. Proposing a definition of rip current intensity based on the rip current circulation geometry, rip current intensity was found to linearly increase with increasing measure of beach alongshore nonuniformity within both the low-energy and moderate-energy rip current regimes. To date, our laboratory experiment provides the first extensive quantitative rip current information during a full down-state sequence for a given wave condition.
ISSN: 0148-0227

hal-00602920
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602920
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006343

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD World Scientific
Résumé : The present paper presents a laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed. The rip current characteristics over four distinct beach morphologies, exhibiting more or less developed nature-like bar-rip morphology,were investigated. For each video run, the same off shore shore-normal waves were generated by the wave maker with the same mean water level in order to study the sensitivity of the rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 1-hour video run was used to track a large number (~30) of drifters released within the surf zone. Image coordinates were then rectifie d to still water level Cartesian coordinates to compute drifter velocities, mean characteristics and surf zone rete ntion rates. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counter-rotating cells and a relatively narrowoffshore-directed jet with, for three of the situations, a reasonably symmetric shape. Non-surprisingly, it was found that rip current intensity increases with increasing relative depth of the rip channel. The wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviation in fl ow intensity and direction provides high resolution information on the spatial variability of the rip current insta bilities with, for instance, highly-pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow in the rip channel. Conversely to what was previously hypothesized in the literature, there was hardly trace of vortices being shed offs hore and drifters exiting the surf zone compartment were not systematically caught by a pulsating jet. The cause for drifter exiting the semi-enclosed surf zone compartment remains, however, elusive and deserves further investigations. The computed surf zone retention rates (~90%) were of the order of those previously observed in the field, with no clear relationship with the mean rip current velocity or relative depth of the rip channel. Further video-runs will have to be analyzed to explore potential explanations
Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009 Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes

ISBN : 978-981-4282-46
hal-00854534
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854534