Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD American Geophysical Union
Résumé : International audience
This study describes a laboratory experiment on rip current circulations over a moveable bed. Rip current characteristics over eight contrasting nature-like beach morphologies are investigated. The seabed varied from reasonably alongshore uniform to strongly alongshore nonuniform with crescentic patterns and bar-rip morphologies, representative of a full morphological down-state sequence. The same offshore shore-normal waves were generated by the wavemaker for the eight situations with the same mean water level to study the sensitivity of rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 30 to 60 min video run was used to track a large number of drifters released within the surf zone. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counterrotating cells and a relatively narrow offshore-directed jet varying from shore-normal to strongly skewed. Wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviations of flow intensity and direction provide high-resolution information on the spatial variability of rip current instabilities. Highly pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow is observed in the rip neck for well-developed bar-rip morphologies that turns into a weakly pulsating and highly directional variable rip current flow with decreasing beach alongshore nonuniformity. Proposing a definition of rip current intensity based on the rip current circulation geometry, rip current intensity was found to linearly increase with increasing measure of beach alongshore nonuniformity within both the low-energy and moderate-energy rip current regimes. To date, our laboratory experiment provides the first extensive quantitative rip current information during a full down-state sequence for a given wave condition.
ISSN: 0148-0227

hal-00602920
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00602920
DOI : 10.1029/2010JC006343

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD World Scientific
Résumé : The present paper presents a laboratory experiment of rip current circulations over a moveable bed. The rip current characteristics over four distinct beach morphologies, exhibiting more or less developed nature-like bar-rip morphology,were investigated. For each video run, the same off shore shore-normal waves were generated by the wave maker with the same mean water level in order to study the sensitivity of the rip current characteristics as a function of the beach morphology only. In each case, a 1-hour video run was used to track a large number (~30) of drifters released within the surf zone. Image coordinates were then rectifie d to still water level Cartesian coordinates to compute drifter velocities, mean characteristics and surf zone rete ntion rates. Results show the presence of classic rip current patterns with counter-rotating cells and a relatively narrowoffshore-directed jet with, for three of the situations, a reasonably symmetric shape. Non-surprisingly, it was found that rip current intensity increases with increasing relative depth of the rip channel. The wave-driven circulations were strongly unstable. Computed standard deviation in fl ow intensity and direction provides high resolution information on the spatial variability of the rip current insta bilities with, for instance, highly-pulsating and weakly directionally variable offshore-directed flow in the rip channel. Conversely to what was previously hypothesized in the literature, there was hardly trace of vortices being shed offs hore and drifters exiting the surf zone compartment were not systematically caught by a pulsating jet. The cause for drifter exiting the semi-enclosed surf zone compartment remains, however, elusive and deserves further investigations. The computed surf zone retention rates (~90%) were of the order of those previously observed in the field, with no clear relationship with the mean rip current velocity or relative depth of the rip channel. Further video-runs will have to be analyzed to explore potential explanations
Proceedings of Coastal Dynamics 2009 Impacts of Human Activities on Dynamic Coastal Processes

ISBN : 978-981-4282-46
hal-00854534
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854534

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The sandy coasts of Languedoc-Roussillon are a zone vulnerable to erosion and flooding. These hazards are generally associated with a combination of natural factors such as waves, wind, rising sea levels and the importance of sediment supply, and are therefore worsened during storms. For the management of such risks, a better knowledge of the hydrodynamic phenomena occuring from the surf zone through to the coastal scale is essential. This need led to the development of a numerical modelling platform consisting of the 3D ocean circulation model Symphonie, usually dedicated to regional and coastal scales, which was modified to include the wave forcing, modeled by the WaveWatch III or Swan models. Using this platform the entire littoral and coastal regions can be accurately represented. The model was tested in several academic cases. Measurements on the barred beach of Sète during the winter of 2008-2009 served to refine the model, which is able to successfully reproduce the characteristics of the currents in coastal areas, drifts or rip currents over more complex bathymetries and also the vertical profiles of currents. To validate the model on the inner-shelf, we compared the simulations with measurements taken during a winter storm in 2004 around the mouth of the Têt river, as well as during storms in 2007 and 2008 in the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes. Currents are generally well reproduced. However, the scope of wave action seems limited to a depth of 30m. The characteristics of our model allow a good reproduction of the currents at all scales and the 3D nature of the model permits a more precise calculation of the shear stress and bottom current responsible, respectively, for the suspension and advection of sediments.
Le littoral sableux du Languedoc-Roussillon est un système vulnérable aux risques d'érosion et de submersion. Ces aléas sont liés à la conjonction des facteurs naturels que sont les vagues, vent, élévation du niveau de la mer et apports sédimentaires et sont donc aggravés en période de tempête. En vue d'une gestion des risques, une meilleure connaissance des phénomènes hydrodynamiques de l'échelle littorale à l'échelle côtière est essentielle. Ce travail a conduit à la réalisation d'une plateforme de modélisation numérique composée du modèle de circulation océanique 3D Symphonie, traditionnellement dédié aux échelles régionales et côtières, qui a été modifié pour inclure le forçage par les vagues, modélisées par les modèles Wavewatch III ou Swan, et ainsi étendre sa validité au littoral. Le modèle a été testé sur des cas académiques littoraux. Des mesures sur la plage à double barres de Sète pendant l'hiver 2008-2009, ont également servi à parfaire le modèle qui reproduit ainsi avec succès les caractéristiques des courants en zone littorale : la dérive, les courants sagittaux sur des bathymétries plus complexes et les profils verticaux des courants. Pour valider le modèle à des échelles plus côtières, nous avons confronté ses résultats à des mesures réalisées pendant une tempête hivernale en 2004 aux alentours de l'embouchure de la Têt, mais également sur des tempêtes de 2007 et 2008 dans le Golfe d'Aigues-Mortes. Les courants sont globalement bien reproduits. Les zones d'action des vagues semblent limitées aux zones de profondeur inférieure à 30 m. Notre modèle autorise une reproduction correcte des courants à toutes les échelles et sa nature 3D permet un calcul plus précis de la tension de cisaillement de fond et du courant près du fond, responsables respectivement de la mise en suspension et de l'advection des sédiments.
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405

tel-00680405
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405v2/document
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405/file/2011_MICHAUD.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.
ISSN: 0749-0208
Szczecin, Poland

hal-00767593
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00767593

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD European Geosciences Union
Résumé : International audience
We develop and implement a new method to take into account the impact of waves into the 3-D circulation model SYMPHONIE (Marsaleix et al., 2008, 2009a), following the simplified equations of Bennis et al. (2011) which use glm2z-RANS theory (Ardhuin et al., 2008b). These adiabatic equations are completed by additional parameterizations of wave breaking, bottom friction and wave-enhanced vertical mixing, making the forcing valid from the surf zone through to the open ocean. The wave forcing is performed by wave generation and propagation models WAVEWATCH III® (Tolman, 2008, 2009; Ardhuin et al., 2010) and SWAN (Booij et al., 1999). The model is tested and compared with other models for a plane beach test case, previously tested by Haas and Warner (2009) and Uchiyama et al. (2010). A comparison is also made with the laboratory measurements of Haller et al. (2002) of a barred beach with channels. Results fit with previous simulations performed by other models and with available observational data. Finally, a realistic case of energetic waves travelling over a coast of the Gulf of Lion (in the northwest of the Mediterranean Sea) for which currents are available at different depths as well as an accurate bathymetric database of the 0-10 m depth range, is then simulated. A grid nesting approach is used to account for the different forcings acting at different spatial scales. The simulation coupling the effects of waves and currents is successful to reproduce the powerful northward littoral drift in the 0-15 m depth zone. More precisely, two distinct cases are identified: when waves have a normal angle of incidence with the coast, they are responsible for complex circulation cells and rip currents in the surf zone, and when they travel obliquely, they generate a northward littoral drift. These features are more complicated than in the test cases, due to the complex bathymetry and the consideration of wind and non-stationary processes. Wave impacts in the inner shelf are less visible since wind and regional circulation seem to be the predominant forcings. Besides, a discrepancy between model and observations is noted at that scale, possibly linked to an underestimation of the wind stress. Lastly, this three-dimensional method allows a good representation of vertical current profiles and permits to calculate the shear stress associated with wave and current. Future work will focus on the combination with a sediment transport model.
ISSN: 1812-0806

hal-00766548
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548/document
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00766548/file/os-8-657-2012.pdf
DOI : 10.5194/osd-8-2417-2011