Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.
ISSN: 0749-0208
Szczecin, Poland

hal-00767593
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00767593

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Centre National de la Recherche Scientifique
Résumé : Avec l'augmentation récente de la population mondiale et des infrastructures en domaine littoral, les tempêtes et les cyclones sont devenus un des risques majeurs à l'échelle globale. La Méditerranée, et plus particulièrement le Golfe du Lion, ne sont pas épargnés par ces phénomènes. La tempête de 1982 par exemple, de catégorie 2 sur l'échelle de Saffir-Simpson est responsable du décès de quinze personnes et de plus de 400 millions d'euros de pertes économiques. La prévision de ces événements à partir de modèles climatiques est devenue primordiale. Le problème majeur dans cette approche est le manque de recul dans le temps pour calibrer ces modèles. Notre approche a donc été de reconstituer ces tempêtes du passé à partir de l'étude d'archives sédimentaires (paléotempestologie). Les lagunes du littoral languedocien sont les réceptacles de matériels terrigènes provenant des bassins versants en période de crues, mais aussi de sables transportés par la mer en période de tempêtes. L'étude des archives sédimentaires dans l'étang de Pierre Blanche nous a permis d'identifier et de reconstituer l'alternance des événements les plus extrêmes au cours des 2000 dernières années. La fréquence de ces tempêtes semble varier dans le temps et une augmentation significative est constatée durant la fin du Petit Âge Glaciaire.
ISSN: 1142-2904

hal-00486349
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00486349

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Island barriers are common features along the world coastlines. They have a crucial role in protecting inland and rich lagoonal ecosystems. Erosion and sand transfers on these island barriers during extreme events such as tropical storms or typhoons remain poorly investigated. This work focuses on a multi-scales nalysis (season to decade) of the morphodynamics of Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier subjected to extreme waves and sea surges. We combine topographic measurements of the emerged beach at seasonal scale between 2011 to 2012 and long-term (1993-2009) shoreline changes using aerial photographs and satellite images. At the seasonal scale, during Monsoon, the sand was taken from the beach-front and transported seaward outside the study area. During typhoons season, 12 typhoons drove a beach recovery process resulting in a seaward shoreline shift. This annual behavior is discussed in term of roll-over process of the barrier. At the decadal scale, the shoreline changes evidence cross-shore processes in the north part of the barrier and longshore processes in the south. Although the chronic landward migration displays several stages, the strong losses of the barrier area occurs only since 2004 and call into question the general concept of conservation of mass during the roll-over of a barrier.
Revue Paralia, XIIIème Journées Nationales Génie CIvil Génie Côtier
Dunkerque, France

hal-01018203
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01018203

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : The wave-dominated beach barrier of Villeneuve-Lès-Maguelone extends between Palavas and Frontignan (Gul f of Lions, northernmost Me diterranean Sea), along a slightly natural sandy protected area char acterized by typical and well-expressed morphologies. In the nearshore, the sea bottom shows one or two approximately rectilinear sand bars. In 2010-2011, we pe rformed a 6 month-long monitoring (autumn 2010/late spring 2011) of a 500 meter-long se gment along this sand barrier. We used RTK D-GPS offering centimeter resolution to acquire sets of elevation data on the beach and the upper shoreface. The study is innovative because a full morphologic monitoring was performed each time the wave/ wind conditions changed significantly. These changes were tracked in real-time thanks to a set of hydrodynamic equipments deployed at sea, including well-known DREAL buoys. We identify from well- documented data: (1) a beach reconstruction cycle at the shorelin e after a moderate storm event (wave height at 3-4 m) and (2) how a sand bar in the nearshore migrates to the shoreline and drives the shoreline shift.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854402
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854402
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.023-C

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Society for Sedimentary Geology
Résumé : International audience
Spectacular accumulations of abundant bryozoan nodules (bryoliths) occur in the early Pleistocene coarse-grained, mixed carbonate-siliciclastic deposits of the Cape Arkhangelos Calcarenite of Rhodes, Greece. These bryoliths are always associated with numerous bivalves (mostly ostreids and pectinids) and serpulid worms, together with other rarer skeletal organisms. The spheroidal bryoliths vary in diameter from I cm to 16 cm, and those with a more ellipsoidal shape range from 0.8 cm to 22 cm in length and from 0.7 cm to 16 cm in width; an elongated bryolith of exceptional size (40 cm) was even found. The bryoliths are composed almost exclusively of the anascan cheilostome Calpensia nobilis and are nucleated on gravels, pebbles, or bivalve shells. After settlement of bryozoan crusts, the bryoliths increased in size by repeated overturning of these mobile hard substrates by longshore currents. The bryoliths developed at depths of 20-40 m on a flat shoal between emerged areas where bottom currents episodically accelerated during storms. The currents also transported the bryoliths, together with other skeletal elements, into deeper settings (40-80 m) where they could continue their growth, upward or downward, or be colonized by other organisms.
ISSN: 0883-0351

hal-00475576
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00475576
DOI : 10.2110/palo.2009.p09-024r

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Ghost fishing and its consequences are little known in the French West Indies. In Guadeloupe, no allegation concerning ghost fishing was made public to date. In the absence of objective studies about this phenomenon, it is impossible to quantify the impact of these lost gears on the resource (Chaves et al. 2006). However, the characteristics of small-scale fishing existing in this area let think that it happens indeed that fishing machines are lost: - weather constraints, sometimes of catastrophic type (storms, hurricanes). The fishermen fix less racks (traps) during the period preceding the hurricane season in preparation for possible loss (Komla-Soukha and Bouchereau 2007). Of the 40 000 Caribbean traps around Guadeloupe, about 20 000 are lost each year during hurricane season, but continue to catch fish for many months (Burke and Maidens 2004); - accidents (most common causes after the literature) occurring during a fishing operation are events already well orally brought back (Macfayden et al. 2009); - the voluntary abandonment at sea of material by the fisherman for convenience reasons; - the consequences of conflicts of use (thefts, destruction of fishing gears, boardings of ships). It is the case in the Caribbean area in connection with the interactions related to the stake on resources exploitation (Blanchet et al. 2002).
Coastal Zone Asia-Pacific Conference-World Small-Scale Fisheries Congress
Bangkok, Thailand

hal-00755291
https://hal.univ-antilles.fr/hal-00755291
https://hal.univ-antilles.fr/hal-00755291/document
https://hal.univ-antilles.fr/hal-00755291/file/WSFC2010_Proceedings_Bouchereau.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
The Grande Terre of New Caledonia is enclosed by one of the longest barrier reefs in the world. For the first time, the fore-reef slopes of this barrier reef have been sampled by dredging, from 40 to 320 m deep, in order to analyze their sedimentological and biological characteristics. The rocks and sediments can be divided into seven sedimentary facies: bindstones dominated by coralline algal crusts, bindstones dominated by foraminiferal crusts, bindstones dominated by bryozoan crusts, coral framestones, bindstones and interstratified packstones rich in skeletal debris, packstones/wackestones and grainstones rich in rock gravels. Radiocarbon dating performed on encrusting organisms (coralline algae and acervulinids) and corals provide ages relatively young. These ages confirm that the encrusting organisms are modern and the corals mainly dated of Holocene are reworked due to the instability of the fore-reef slopes, especially during storms. Because the biological assemblages are distributed according to a bathymetric range depending on light intensity, a model of distribution of modern encrusting calcareous organisms can be proposed from our observations and analyses. From the upper reef slopes to approximately 90 m, thick coralline algal crusts are dominant and distributed in three groups. Group C, the shallowest parts of the fore slopes, is mainly characterized by mastophorids (Hydrolithon reinboldii, H. cf. munitum, Lithoporella melobesoides, Aethesolithon cf. problematicum, Neogoniolithon sp. and undetermined species) and lithophylloids (Lithophyllum sp., L. pustulatum). Group B, composed of lithophylloids (Lithophyllum sp., L. cf. kotschyanum, L. cf. moluccence, L. pustulatum), Mesophyllum sp. and Peyssonnelia sp. occurs from 15 to 40 m. Group A, rich in Mesophyllum sp., M. cf. mesomorphum, Peyssonnelia sp. and Sporolithon sp. is characteristic of deep reef slopes up to 90 m. Below approximately 90 m, when the light intensity decreases, the encrusting foraminifera acervulinids progressively replace the coralline algal crusts. Such a model is particularly useful to interpret and reconstruct the past Quaternary reef environments rich in crusts of coralline algae and/or foraminifera.
ISSN: 0025-3227

hal-00393705
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00393705
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2007.12.002

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
The active selection of recent volcanic habitats by juvenile fish following a cyclone could explain the unusual mass-settlement of the Indian Ocean blacktip grouper Epinephelus oceanicus observed on 25 May 2006, few weeks after tropical storm Diwa on the latest lava flows of the Piton de la Fournaise volcano at Reunion Island. Following a cyclonic depression, shallow underwater habitats are devoid of resident fishes, including predators, favouring juvenile fish survival. Otherwise, the recent origin of the volcanic habitats, which vary in age, could facilitate the spatial segregation of adult and juvenile fish on the lava flows, reducing intraspecific competition and adult aggression toward juveniles. Regional characteristics of larval recruitment could also contribute to the infrequency of the described event; the isolated situation of the island would be expected to result in an average density of fish postlarvae 0.25 % to 1 % of that seen on some reefs in the Pacific. The supposed origin of juvenile groupers in the neighbouring island of Mauritius should encourage Reunionese managers to look beyond their own jurisdictions to adopt a collaborative approach to conservation of the entire connected network.
Environmental Biology of Fishes

hal-01306707
http://hal.univ-reunion.fr/hal-01306707
http://hal.univ-reunion.fr/hal-01306707/document
http://hal.univ-reunion.fr/hal-01306707/file/Mass-settlement%20of%20the%20Indian%20ocean%20black-tip%20grouper_hal.pdf
DOI : 10.1007/s10641-014-0303-2

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Diffuse contamination of surface water by veterinary pharmaceuticals (VP) has been poorly studied in intensive breeding context. Recycling animal waste on soil is supported to fertilize crops and reduce utilization of mineral fertilizer but may have some environmental impact by recycling pollutants on soils and transferring pollutants from soils to rivers. Most of pharmaceuticals are consumed indifferently by human and animal, especially antibiotics. This study aims to quantify veterinary pharmaceuticals (VP) in superficial water in two agricultural catchments. One is dedicated to the production of drinkable water. Agriculture but also waste water treatment plant may contribute to the contamination of water and it is difficult to distinguish animal versus human source of contamination
1ere conférence internationale sur l’évaluation des risques des résidus de médicament dans l’environnement
Paris, France

insu-01467591
https://hal-insu.archives-ouvertes.fr/insu-01467591

Éditeur(s) : Elsevier
Résumé : During the SEDIFAN 1 cruise we surveyed the bathymetry and the acoustic properties of the surface sediment of the Celtic Deep Sea Fan. We also collected Kullenberg cores in order to study recent sedimentary processes. From the bathymetry survey it is relatively easy to recognize the main areas of modern fan. The upper fan included a large sedimentary ridge which constitutes the right levee of the prominent meandering Whittard valley. After its confluence with the Shamrock valley the course of the Whittard valley is abruptly deflected to the south. At a short distance to the south the valley divides into two upper-fan channels, the Celtic channel to the west being the deeper one. This point constitutes the centre of a radiating pattern which is developed on a 150 degrees quadrant and a radius of about 100 km. The acoustic imagery displays contrasted features, related to change in lithology within the first metre beneath the sea bottom and to the sea floor roughness. The Austell ridge exhibits a contrasted pattern of elongated areas with high and low acoustic backscattering levels. This pattern is related to the development of abyssal dunes, the amplitude of which is of metric order. Particularly remarkable is a lobe-shaped low back-scattering area in the western part of the middle fan, also noteworthy are a lineated facies to the west and a braided facies to the east of the fan. The laminated silty-clayey sequences deposited on the Whittard ridge and on the Trevelyan levee were deposited during the deglaciation. We interpret these as turbidity currents overflow deposits from the Whittard valley. At the end of isotopic stage 3 and during stage 2, the English Channel was a large plain flooded by the Channel River. During this period a broad delta developed at 100 m below the present-day depth and a wide spectrum of material was bound to be supplied to the deep sea and contributed particularly to the deposition of the Whittard ridge silty-clayey sequences. The stage 2 deposits are characterized by rhythmic levels enriched in monosulfides. These types of deposits are common in areas affected by fluvial discharges. Excluding the sedimentary ridge and the channel levees the surface deposits sampled with the Kullenberg corer are sandy. These sands are deposited in various contexts on the interfluve between the western and eastern channels and at channel mouths. They were emplaced during high sea level stands as a result of high energy gravity processes. The precise sources of these sands have not yet been identified, however benthic foraminifers from included ooze pebbles have living depths of between 500 and 1 000 m. The gravity processes which eroded this marry ooze may have been triggered on the upper slope. The Celtic shelf is presently a high energy platform where the conjunction of storms and spring tides call lead to enhanced sediment transport from near-shore to the deep sea. The relict or palimpsest deposits of the glacial delta also constitute a large reservoir of sandy material which can also be subject to reworking.
Le programme Enam 2 (European North Atlantic Margin) concerne l'étude des processus sédimentaires quaternaires du Spitzberg au golfe de Gascogne. Dans le cadre de ce programme, la reconnaissance de l'Éventail profond celtique était l'objectif de la campagne Sedifan 1 au cours de laquelle nous avons établi la morphologie de l'éventail et obtenu une image acoustique des fonds sédimentaires. La morphologie permet de mettre en évidence une organisation en éventail. On note aussi le développement remarquable d'une ride sédimentaire au niveau de l'éventail supérieur. Les sédiments prélevés révèlent la présence de dépôts sableux, témoins d'une activité récente qui pourrait être liée à l'importance de l'hydrodynamisme sur les Grands Bancs de la plate-forme celtique.
Oceanologica Acta (0399-1784) (Elsevier), 2000 , Vol. 23 , N. 1 , P. 109-116

Droits : 2000 Ifremer/CNRS/IRD/Editions scientifiques et medicales Elsevier SAS
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/2000/publication-525.pdf
DOI:10.1016/S0399-1784(00)00116-X
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00000/525/

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
This manuscript reports on a novel field experiment carried out on a microtidal beach in Camargue, France. For the first time in the field, a comprehensive description of the groundwater dynamics under sandy beach swash zone is presented. A cross-shore network of 15 buried pressure sensors is combined with terrestrial LiDAR measurements to study the swash-groundwater dynamics. The presented data focus on the decay of a moderate storm which allows to monitor the evolution of the groundwater pressure field in response to the retreat of the swash zone. Both horizontal and vertical head gradients are measured within the porous sand soil to estimate the groundwater flow field using Darcy’s law. Time-averaged analysis demonstrates the presence of a rather consistent groundwater circulation pattern under the swash zone, shifting offshore with the swash zone. The main tendency is an offshore directed flow, with infiltration/exfiltration in the upper/lower parts of the swash zone. Time-resolved analysis highlights the typical groundwater response to swash events which consists mainly of an overall infiltration flow during the bed inundation by the swash tongue, a seaward flow during the swash retreat and, for long backwash events, a localized exfiltration flow under the next incoming uprush.
ISSN: 0309-1708

hal-01412450
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01412450
DOI : 10.1016/j.advwatres.2016.09.009

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
In the analysis of coastal hazards, the features of extreme waves are determining information to question the impact of storms to the coast. The spatial behaviour of extreme waves is even more valuable especially since it is sparsely provided. Regarding recent applications in other contexts, a kind of statistical models called max-stable processes is relevant for modelling spatial extreme events. Max-stable processes are extensions of the well-known Generalised Extreme Value (GEV) distribution. Unlike univariate approaches, max-stable processes consider spatial dependence of a phenomenon. Such a modelling also overtakes a standard multivariate approach by providing information continuously over the area studied, even where no observation is available. Relying on such a stochastic modelling, the aim of this study is to discuss the extreme waves hazards in the Gulf of Lions, focusing on their spatial behaviour.
34th Conference on Coastal Engineering
Seoul, South Korea

lirmm-01382568
https://hal-lirmm.ccsd.cnrs.fr/lirmm-01382568
https://hal-lirmm.ccsd.cnrs.fr/lirmm-01382568/document
https://hal-lirmm.ccsd.cnrs.fr/lirmm-01382568/file/7553-31212-1-PB.pdf
DOI : 10.9753/icce.v34.management.17

Éditeur(s) : Université des Antilles Études caribéennes
Résumé : The Costa Maya is a vernacular coastal region of southeastern Quintana Roo (Mexico) and adjacent Ambergris Cay, Belize. As Mexico’s Caribbean coast suffered many growth pains associated with mass tourism development in Cancun and along the Riviera Maya, the Costa Maya by contrast was projected for more sustainable development including low-density housing and ecotourism. Development so far has been concentrated in Puerto Costa Maya, where a cruise ship pier and terminal were built in 2001. The nearby beach resort (balneario) of Majahual became dependent upon the 10-12 shiploads of tourists that descended upon it every week. In spite of big development plans, the more remote beaches of the Costa Maya cater to fewer, but well-heeled ecotourists and dive tourists. Hurricane Dean made landfall in August 2007 as a category-5 storm, and economic recovery only began in late 2008 when the cruise ship pier re-opened and Majahual rebuilt. As of late 2009, the cruise-ship traffic had still not recovered to pre-Dean levels, and a global recession coupled with swine-flu and drug violence scares has lowered U.S. tourism to Mexico. To what degree new tourism infrastructure such as an international airport at Tulum, a proposed causeway from Chetumal to the beach, and a new resort complex at Xahuayxel will stimulate tourism on the Mexican Costa Maya and eventually lead to a coastal highway link with San Pedro, Belize is still unknown.
La Costa Maya est une région côtière du sud du Quintana Roo (Mexique), proche de l'îlet Ambergris au Bélize. Contrairement à la côte caribéenne du Mexique qui a souffert du développement du tourisme de masse à Cancun et le long de la Riviera Maya, la Costa Maya s'est orientée vers un développement durable avec notamment une faible densité de construction et le développement de l'écotourisme.Le développement s'est concentré autour de Puerto Costa Maya où un terminal de croisière a été construit en 2001. La station balnéaire (balneario) de Majahual est devenue dépendante des 10-12 bateaux de touristes qui débarquaient chaque semaine. En dépit d'importants plans de développement, les plages reculées de la Costa Maya accueillaient tout au plus des écotouristes aisés et du tourisme lié à la plongée sous-marine.Le cyclone Dean, de catégorie 5, a dévasté le paysage en août 2007 et le rétablissement économique n'a pu être entamé que fin 2008, après la réouverture du terminal de croisière et la reconstruction de Majahual. Fin 2009, le trafic de croisière n'a pas retrouvé son niveau d'avant Dean et la récession mondiale couplée avec la grippe porcine et les violences liées à la drogue ont fait diminuer le tourisme en provenance des Etats-Unis. On ignore à quel niveau les nouvelles infrastructures tels l'aéroport international de Tulum qui propose un itinéraire de Chetumal à la plage et le nouveau complexe hôtelier à Xahuayxel, stimuleront la Costa Maya mexicaine créant peut-être une autoroute côtière reliée à San Pedro au Bélize.
Cancún
Costa Maya
Mexique

Droits : info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
urn:doi:10.4000/etudescaribeennes.3867
http://journals.openedition.org/etudescaribeennes/3867

Éditeur(s) : Université des Antilles Études caribéennes
Résumé : Depuis le passage du cyclone Hugo en 1989, la Guadeloupe est plus ou moins préparée à affronter un nouvel évènement cyclonique (alerte météo, abris anti-cycloniques, etc.). En revanche, pour ce qui concerne les tsunamis, ce n’est que depuis quelques années (après le tsunami de 2004 dans l’océan indien, le séisme de Haïti de 2010 et le tsunami du Japon de 2011) qu’une prise de conscience du risque encouru dans la Caraïbe et plus particulièrement dans l’archipel guadeloupéen s’est faite. Des projets d’évaluation de ces risques ont alors vu le jour et c’est dans le cadre de l’un d’eux (projet INTERREG IV TSUNAHOULE) que l’étude de l’aléa submersion marine pour la réserve naturelle de Petite-Terre a été réalisée. Au travers de 3 scénarios extrêmes choisis en accord avec les connaissances météorologiques et géologiques de la région, les impacts modélisés d’un tsunami, d’une houle de nord longue période et d’un cyclone de catégorie 4-5 sont présentés et discutés distinctement après avoir dressé un bilan des différents enjeux de la réserve, ce qui mène à une réflexion sur la vulnérabilité des occupants de la réserve face à ces aléas naturels.
Since the tropical hurricane Hugo devastated Guadeloupe Archipelago in 1989, the island is more or less prepared to face another cyclonic event (alerts, shelters, etc.). On the other hand, tsunamis have only become a great concern in the Caribbean and more particularly in Guadeloupe for a couple of years (after the 2004 Indian Ocean tsunami, the 2010 Haiti earthquake and the 2011 Japan tsunami). Thus research projects have been led to try to assess marine submersion hazards as the INTERREG IV TSUNAHOULE project in which this study of the natural sanctuary of Petite-Terre has been done. Through 3 extreme scenarios chosen in agreement with meteorological and geological knowledge in the region, the modeled impact of a tsunami, a long period north swell, and a 4-5 category hurricane are presented and discussed separately after having detailed the different stakes of the sanctuary, which leads to start on thought about the vulnerability of its inhabitants, temporary or not, in front of those natural hazards.
Guadeloupe
Petite-Terre

Droits : info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
urn:doi:10.4000/etudescaribeennes.6643
http://journals.openedition.org/etudescaribeennes/6643