Éditeur(s) : Elsevier
Résumé : Beach sediment cementation (beachrock formation) is a sedimentary process that can transform significant sections of beaches into rock outcrops. This contribution reports the results of two questionnaire surveys (one focusing on foreign tourists and the other on local people) carried out in coastal resorts of the island of Lesbos (Greece), on the perceptions of beach users regarding the impacts of beachrocks on their recreational activities. The survey focusing on foreign tourists showed that the majority of the interviewees took notice of the formations and commented negatively on them. Although most of the interviewees did not consider beachrocks a significant safety risk, a considerable proportion of the sample stated that beachrocks influenced their beach ratings that they would prefer beachrock-free beaches and would be willing to contribute financially to preventative and protective measures. In contrast, the results of the survey focusing on local people, who are more familiar with the phenomenon, showed a high perception of beachrock-related risks and limited beachrock tolerance. In addition to the safety risks that the irregular, slippery, beachrock surfaces may pose to beach users, beachrocks may also degrade beach aesthetics. promote beach sediment erosion and decrease the beach carrying capacity. As beachrocks are a common attribute of tropical, subtropical and low-temperate beaches that are typically associated with major tourist destinations, and are likely to spread under global warming conditions, they may be considered as a significant threat to the coastal tourist industry. (c) 2008 Elsevier Ltd. All rights reserved.
Tourism Management (0261-5177) (Elsevier), 2009-08 , Vol. 30 , N. 4 , P. 544-552

Droits : 2009 Elsevier Ltd All rights reserved.
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/2009/publication-6625.pdf
DOI:10.1016/j.tourman.2008.09.007
http://archimer.ifremer.fr/doc/00000/6625/

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Both short-term and long-term morphodynamics of sand barrier systems forced by moderate storm conditions have been studied significantly in the literature. However, the dynamics of the emerged beach -- from a seaside water depth of ~ 1.5 metres below the lowest tide to the back-barrier -- impacted by typhoons remain scarcely documented. This study focuses on the analysis and a better understanding of the morphologic changes of such an emerged beach, when it is forced by one typhoon, several typhoons or the combination of a summer season of typhoons and a winter season of Monsoon wave/ wind conditions. The monitoring of near-shore hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics was performed in the Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier from November 2011 to August 2012. Waves, currents and water level were measured at an offshore buoy (Cigu buoy; 18 m of water depth; 1.5 km seaward the studied zone), a current profiler (4 m of water depth), and a serie of pressure sensors deployed along a cross-shore section from the lower intertidal zone up to the eolian dune. Tide was obtained from a tide gauge inside the lagoon and wind conditions were obtained respectively from an inland station and the offshore Cigu buoy. Morphodynamic changes were monitoring thanks to DGDPS surveys performed on a grid including a 300 meters long portion of sand barrier extending from the subtidal zone to the back-barrier, as well as along two cross-shore and two long-shore profiles located within the grid. Surveys were performed each week during winter and just before and after each storm during the typhoons summer season. This field methodology provided a new and very robust dataset in order to quantify sand barrier dynamics exposed to high-energy events at various time scales. Amongst the eight typhoons recorded, TALIM is the most significant and representative. Offshore wave height reached 10.34 m (Tp = 14.6 s) at Cigu buoy and 2.3 m in 4 m of water depth. Morphological changes recorded 6 m of retreat for the dune front, a 20 m large dune breaching and the occurence of a wash-over fan in the lagoon. These changes form a well-known morphodynamic responses to moderate storms. More surprisingly, TALIM drove a significant nourishment of the supratidal zone, as well as a positive sand balance on the whole sand barrier. Five other typhoons resulted in the same type of morphological responses while two typhoons resulted in a strong erosion of the whole emerged beach. During winter and spring (moderate wave conditions and strong Monsoon winds), sand moved from the beach front to the back-barrier. For the whole year, the sand barrier recorded a 12 m landward migration concomitantly with a 12 m widening without abrasion of the dune elevation.
American Geophysical Union, Fall Meeting 2013

hal-01012312
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01012312

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Inter Research
Résumé : International audience
The main objective of the VULSACO (VULnerability of SAndy COasts to climate change and anthropic pressure) project was to investigate present day and potential future vulnerability of sandy coasts at the 2030 horizon, i.e. on a time scale related to climate variability. The method, based on a multidisciplinary approach bringing together geologists, geographers, physicists, social psychologists, engineers and stakeholders, was structured around 4 axes: field data analysis; numerical modelling; analysis of governance and stakeholder perceptions; and development of vulnerability indexes. This approach was designed to investigate vulnerability at a local scale and was applied to 4 contrasting beaches located in France: Sète Lido (Mediterranean Sea), Truc Vert and La Tresson beaches (Atlantic Ocean), and Dewulf (English Channel). The results focus on decadal and multi-annual beach trends at the Truc Vert beach site. There is almost no trend in beach volume at Truc Vert beach, although there is a variation in this parameter on a cycle of 2 to 3 yr, with variations related to wave energy and probably to indexes of climate variability. Numerical modelling identified the sensitivity of beach responses to changes in wave height and direction, especially in terms of subtidal morphology and the potential development of shoreline instability. Together with the observed offshore wave angle at the Biscay Buoy, these model results suggest that a potential change in wave angle due to climate variability could significantly modify the bars' morphology. The combination of data analysis and numerical modelling contributed to the development of vulnerability indexes designed for sandy coasts, which take into account climate-dependant variables such as waves. This allowed the differentiation of the sites in terms of vulnerability to erosion: Sète Lido and Truc Vert beach were the most and least vulnerable sites, respectively. These indexes help in identifying the dominant components of beach vulnerability, and provide potential for the study of how anthropogenic factors affect vulnerability. The study of stakeholder perceptions and decision-making with regard to climate-related risk also highlighted potential anthropogenic effects on beach vulnerability, and identified possible site-specific outcomes.
ISSN: 0936-577X

hal-00843946
https://hal-brgm.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00843946
DOI : 10.3354/cr01153

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Wiley
Résumé : International audience
This paper describes how to tackle new challenging coastal engineering problems related to beach erosion with a shape optimization approach. The method modifies the shape of the sea bottom in order to reduce beach erosion effects. Global optimization is shown to be necessary as the related functionals have several local minima. We describe the physical model used, the proposed protection devices against beach erosion and real case applications.
ISSN: 0029-5981

hal-00411912
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00411912
DOI : 10.1002/nme.2209

Éditeur(s) : Université des Antilles Études caribéennes
Résumé : À quelques kilomètres d’Oran, la zone côtière d’Aïn el Turck connue auparavant pour ses belles plages, a subi depuis quelques décennies une urbanisation incontrôlée touchant essentiellement son domaine public maritime (DPM). Actuellement, sur les parties hautes des plages comme Saint Roch, Paradis, Bouisseville ou Trouville s’alignent des villas de un à deux étages, des garages à bateaux et de grands hôtels. L’empiètement sur ces espaces pourtant protégés par plusieurs lois a participé à l’érosion de la bande sableuse et à la régression de l’activité touristique balnéaire. Une situation qui reflète une nette difficulté dans la gestion et la protection de cet espace convoité et fragile.Notre étude de la zone côtière d’Aïn el Turck va aborder quatre points : la relation entre la « bétonisation » du rivage et le changement du trait de côte, l’évolution de l’urbanisation et les stratégies d’occupations, les types de concurrence qui existent entre différents usagers sur l’appropriation du foncier littoral et enfin, les difficultés éprouvées dans la protection du domaine public maritime par les services gestionnaires. La méthode du travail est basée essentiellement sur deux approches : la première est la comparaison entre plusieurs photos aériennes, à différentes dates, pour l’identification des changements naturels affectant le rivage en relation avec l’évolution de l’urbanisation de la côte. La seconde est la réalisation d’entretiens avec les principaux acteurs du territoire et l’analyse des discours formulés par les différents groupes d’intérêts, souvent en situation de conflit.
A few kilometres from Oran, the coastal area of Ain el Turck previously known for its beautiful beaches, has suffered in recent decades uncontrolled urbanization affecting mainly the maritime public domain (DPM). Currently, the upper parts of beaches like St. Roch, Paradis, Trouville, Bouisseville or lined with villas from one to two floors, garages for boats and large hotels. Encroachment on these areas yet protected by several laws, participated in the erosion of the sandbank and the decline of seaside tourism. This reflected a marked difficulty in managing and protecting this fragile and coveted space.Our study of the coastal area of Ain el Turck will address four points: the relationship between 'concretisation' of shoreline and shoreline change, the evolution of urbanization and occupation strategies, types of competition between different users on the ownership of coastal land and finally, the difficulties in protecting the maritime public by managing services.The method of work is essentially based on two approaches:the first is the comparison between several aerial photographs at different dates, for identifying changes affecting the natural shoreline in relation to the evolution of the urbanization of the coast. The second is conducting interviews with stakeholders in the area and analysis of speeches made by various interest groups, often in conflict.
Algérie
Aïn el Turck

Droits : info:eu-repo/semantics/openAccess
urn:doi:10.4000/etudescaribeennes.4431
http://journals.openedition.org/etudescaribeennes/4431

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Quasi-3D model SHORECIRC simulates circulation on simple nearshore domains. It is modified in order to handle realistic bathymetries : beaches with complex shoreline and/or emerged structures. Added improvements are validated against other models and measurements on various configurations. New SHORECIRC version is then applied to the study of the circulation dynamics of Leucate, a sandy beach of Languedoc- Roussillon (France) with crescentic bars.
Le modèle numérique de circulation quasi-tridimensionnel SHORECIRC, initialement prévu pour fonctionner sur des bathymétries simples, a été modifié afin de pouvoir prendre en compte les caractéristiques complexes des bathymétries réalistes de la zone littorale : trait de côte irrégulier et présence d'objets émergés. Les modifications apportées ont ´été validées par comparaison avec des résultats d'autres modèles numériques et avec des données mesurées sur plusieurs configurations. Enfin, le modèle modifié a été appliqué à l'étude de la dynamique de la circulation sur une plage sableuse à barres en festons (Plage de Leucate, Languedoc-Roussillon, FR).
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713

tel-00438713
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713/document
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713/file/thesebujan.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Island barriers are common features along the world coastlines. They have a crucial role in protecting inland and rich lagoonal ecosystems. Erosion and sand transfers on these island barriers during extreme events such as tropical storms or typhoons remain poorly investigated. This work focuses on a multi-scales nalysis (season to decade) of the morphodynamics of Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier subjected to extreme waves and sea surges. We combine topographic measurements of the emerged beach at seasonal scale between 2011 to 2012 and long-term (1993-2009) shoreline changes using aerial photographs and satellite images. At the seasonal scale, during Monsoon, the sand was taken from the beach-front and transported seaward outside the study area. During typhoons season, 12 typhoons drove a beach recovery process resulting in a seaward shoreline shift. This annual behavior is discussed in term of roll-over process of the barrier. At the decadal scale, the shoreline changes evidence cross-shore processes in the north part of the barrier and longshore processes in the south. Although the chronic landward migration displays several stages, the strong losses of the barrier area occurs only since 2004 and call into question the general concept of conservation of mass during the roll-over of a barrier.
Revue Paralia, XIIIème Journées Nationales Génie CIvil Génie Côtier
Dunkerque, France

hal-01018203
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01018203

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The sandy coasts of Languedoc-Roussillon are a zone vulnerable to erosion and flooding. These hazards are generally associated with a combination of natural factors such as waves, wind, rising sea levels and the importance of sediment supply, and are therefore worsened during storms. For the management of such risks, a better knowledge of the hydrodynamic phenomena occuring from the surf zone through to the coastal scale is essential. This need led to the development of a numerical modelling platform consisting of the 3D ocean circulation model Symphonie, usually dedicated to regional and coastal scales, which was modified to include the wave forcing, modeled by the WaveWatch III or Swan models. Using this platform the entire littoral and coastal regions can be accurately represented. The model was tested in several academic cases. Measurements on the barred beach of Sète during the winter of 2008-2009 served to refine the model, which is able to successfully reproduce the characteristics of the currents in coastal areas, drifts or rip currents over more complex bathymetries and also the vertical profiles of currents. To validate the model on the inner-shelf, we compared the simulations with measurements taken during a winter storm in 2004 around the mouth of the Têt river, as well as during storms in 2007 and 2008 in the Gulf of Aigues-Mortes. Currents are generally well reproduced. However, the scope of wave action seems limited to a depth of 30m. The characteristics of our model allow a good reproduction of the currents at all scales and the 3D nature of the model permits a more precise calculation of the shear stress and bottom current responsible, respectively, for the suspension and advection of sediments.
Le littoral sableux du Languedoc-Roussillon est un système vulnérable aux risques d'érosion et de submersion. Ces aléas sont liés à la conjonction des facteurs naturels que sont les vagues, vent, élévation du niveau de la mer et apports sédimentaires et sont donc aggravés en période de tempête. En vue d'une gestion des risques, une meilleure connaissance des phénomènes hydrodynamiques de l'échelle littorale à l'échelle côtière est essentielle. Ce travail a conduit à la réalisation d'une plateforme de modélisation numérique composée du modèle de circulation océanique 3D Symphonie, traditionnellement dédié aux échelles régionales et côtières, qui a été modifié pour inclure le forçage par les vagues, modélisées par les modèles Wavewatch III ou Swan, et ainsi étendre sa validité au littoral. Le modèle a été testé sur des cas académiques littoraux. Des mesures sur la plage à double barres de Sète pendant l'hiver 2008-2009, ont également servi à parfaire le modèle qui reproduit ainsi avec succès les caractéristiques des courants en zone littorale : la dérive, les courants sagittaux sur des bathymétries plus complexes et les profils verticaux des courants. Pour valider le modèle à des échelles plus côtières, nous avons confronté ses résultats à des mesures réalisées pendant une tempête hivernale en 2004 aux alentours de l'embouchure de la Têt, mais également sur des tempêtes de 2007 et 2008 dans le Golfe d'Aigues-Mortes. Les courants sont globalement bien reproduits. Les zones d'action des vagues semblent limitées aux zones de profondeur inférieure à 30 m. Notre modèle autorise une reproduction correcte des courants à toutes les échelles et sa nature 3D permet un calcul plus précis de la tension de cisaillement de fond et du courant près du fond, responsables respectivement de la mise en suspension et de l'advection des sédiments.
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405

tel-00680405
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405v2/document
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00680405/file/2011_MICHAUD.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : In the bay of Aigues-Mortes, the managers of the co astal cities try to preserve the socio-economic and patrimonial stakes against the coastal hazards, such as contamination, storm surge and erosion. In this context, a massive beach nourishment of sand (1 million of m3 for 10km of coastline) was made at the beginning of year 2008 to reduce erosion. The REPBAM project (REchargements et Panaches sédiment aires dans la Baie d'Aigues-Mortes) aims to qualify and quantify by in-situ measurements and numerical modelling: 1. the geomorphological evolution of this modified coast and 2. the impact of the sediment's resuspension on the coastal ecosystems, in particular the one of the Posidonia oceanica seagrass. A numerical modelling "wave/current/sediment" is first implemented for December 2008. Nested and curvilinear grids allow a very high resolution for the beach area but also include the inner shelf where the seagrasses are located. Hydrodynamic and topo-bathymetric measurements were acquired from January to May 2012. Model and measurements results show the same trends during storms: strong currents, seaward migrationof the innerbar, sediment resuspension and turbid on the inner shelf.
Coastal Dynamics 2013
Arcachon, France

hal-00908082
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00908082

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
The Maguelone shore extends along the northern coast of the Gulf of Lions, west of the Rhone Delta and east of high-gradient coastal streams that have provided most of the clastic sediments to the Gulf of Lions margin since the early Miocene. This 10 km-wide area is constituted by a small coastal watershed (15 km long) in low-lying carbonate hills, a kilometre-wide marsh, a sandy beach barrier and a shoreface experiencing local low sedimentation rates. This onshore-offshore transition zone is a key area to understand the relationships between erosion, by-pass, deposition and preservation processes. Unlike the neighbouring Rhone deposits that display numerous thick deltaic sequences related to a continuous sediment flux, the Maguelone shore exhibits peculiar sedimentary bodies. The analysis of about 250 km of new VHR seismic profiles acquired over the study area, 9 short cores and outcrops data allowed us to determine the three-dimensional high-resolution geometry of the coastal system tracts from Quaternary to present-day. This revealed dominant denudation processes in the Upstream catchments associated with the formation of incised valleys during Quaternary lowstands. In addition, this study investigates the erosion and deposition mechanisms controlled by littoral hydrodynamics that have been taken place on this shore since the last transgression. In particular, metre-high and hundreds of metre-long sandy bodies constructed by alongshore hydrodynamics were identified and their effect on the morphodynamics of the whole littoral system is discussed. The Maguelone shore can be used as an experimental study for onshore/offshore dynamics under the influence of microtidal wave/current hydrodynamics and very low river-derived sediment flux during a eustatic cycle. Geometry of system tracts across flood plain to shoreface is usually considered to be controlled by relative sea-level changes, and is successfully analysed with 2D sequence stratigraphy cross-shore models. It is observed that in areas like the Maguelone shore, traditional sequence stratigraphy methods might not be fully relevant and need to integrate alongshore hydrodynamical processes.
ISSN: 0025-3227

hal-00421060
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00421060
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2009.06.008