Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Both short-term and long-term morphodynamics of sand barrier systems forced by moderate storm conditions have been studied significantly in the literature. However, the dynamics of the emerged beach -- from a seaside water depth of ~ 1.5 metres below the lowest tide to the back-barrier -- impacted by typhoons remain scarcely documented. This study focuses on the analysis and a better understanding of the morphologic changes of such an emerged beach, when it is forced by one typhoon, several typhoons or the combination of a summer season of typhoons and a winter season of Monsoon wave/ wind conditions. The monitoring of near-shore hydrodynamics and beach morphodynamics was performed in the Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier from November 2011 to August 2012. Waves, currents and water level were measured at an offshore buoy (Cigu buoy; 18 m of water depth; 1.5 km seaward the studied zone), a current profiler (4 m of water depth), and a serie of pressure sensors deployed along a cross-shore section from the lower intertidal zone up to the eolian dune. Tide was obtained from a tide gauge inside the lagoon and wind conditions were obtained respectively from an inland station and the offshore Cigu buoy. Morphodynamic changes were monitoring thanks to DGDPS surveys performed on a grid including a 300 meters long portion of sand barrier extending from the subtidal zone to the back-barrier, as well as along two cross-shore and two long-shore profiles located within the grid. Surveys were performed each week during winter and just before and after each storm during the typhoons summer season. This field methodology provided a new and very robust dataset in order to quantify sand barrier dynamics exposed to high-energy events at various time scales. Amongst the eight typhoons recorded, TALIM is the most significant and representative. Offshore wave height reached 10.34 m (Tp = 14.6 s) at Cigu buoy and 2.3 m in 4 m of water depth. Morphological changes recorded 6 m of retreat for the dune front, a 20 m large dune breaching and the occurence of a wash-over fan in the lagoon. These changes form a well-known morphodynamic responses to moderate storms. More surprisingly, TALIM drove a significant nourishment of the supratidal zone, as well as a positive sand balance on the whole sand barrier. Five other typhoons resulted in the same type of morphological responses while two typhoons resulted in a strong erosion of the whole emerged beach. During winter and spring (moderate wave conditions and strong Monsoon winds), sand moved from the beach front to the back-barrier. For the whole year, the sand barrier recorded a 12 m landward migration concomitantly with a 12 m widening without abrasion of the dune elevation.
American Geophysical Union, Fall Meeting 2013

hal-01012312
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01012312

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc.
Résumé : International audience
Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neapspring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.
ICS 2016 Sydney
Sydney, Australia

hal-01254465
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465
DOI : 10.2112/SI75-075.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The sinking of the Prestige tanker (November, 2002) spilled over 64000 tons of heavy fuel oil. The Prestige oil spill (POS) affected approximately 1000 km of coast belonging to Portugal, France and Spain and more than 600 sandy beaches were polluted along the Atlantic coast of Spain. Since POS, yearly surveys of two oiled sandy beaches (Galicia, NW Spain) have provided evidences regarding the oil pollution behavior and the influence of beach morphodynamics on the dynamics of the contamination. The analysis of wave climate, the extracted suction cores and the detected oil from 2004 and 2009 fieldworks have allowed to promote a conceptual model of the influence of beach morphodynamics on the first steps of an oil spill and to establish the effects on the long-term oil pollution
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-00783182
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00783182

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : The field campaign on the Sète coast deployed during the winter 2009 was used to understand the hydrodynamics on a double barred beach in the surf zone during storm periods. The large set of measurements collected at several position and depth were also useful to improve the 3D circulation model Symphonie that takes into account the atmospherics and wave forcings. Once implemented on the beach and supplemented with some additional parameterizations concerning the roller effects and the bottom friction, the model was tuned and validated in the surf zone. The role of the different processes was then analysed. Thus, the roller and the bottom friction are of primary importance in the dynamics of the circulation. Thanks to its 3D nature and once associated with a sediment transport model and a morphodynamic model, Symphonie will offer a good representation of the sediment transport.
Coastal Dynamics 2013
Arcachon, France

hal-00855035
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00855035

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
We show how to introduce the Value at Risk (VaR) concept in the analysis of the adaptation of the shape of a soft bed to a flow knowing the Probability Density Function (PDF) of the responses of the shape to flow perturbations (bed receptivity). Our aim is to quantify our confidence on simulation scenarios by an available morphodynamic model for the shape. The approach permits to perform this task at low complexity as it does not require any sampling of the bed receptivity parameter space. The paper goes beyond stationarity for the variability of the bed receptivity by linking its dynamics to the bottom morphodynamics through an original transport equation for the local bed receptivity standard deviation. The approach has been applied to the analysis of bed morphodynamics based on minimization principles. The results show the importance of including uncertainty information during the coupling and not only eventually through simple margins on the results.
ISSN: 0045-7930

hal-01054937
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01054937
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01054937/document
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01054937/file/paper_var_litto.pdf
DOI : 10.1016/j.compfluid.2013.10.021

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Barrier island hydro-morphodynamics driven by typhoon events are the major concern of the project KUNSHEN (2011-2014). It aims at providing for a deep understanding of the peculiar dynamics of sand barriers where extreme events such as typhoons have a significant impact. We present the campaigns and the protocols achieved and planned in the project, on the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, Cigu Lagoon, Tainan, Taiwan, from October 2011 to January 2012, during the winter storm season and during summer 2012 during the typhoon season. A set of current profilers are deployed along a cross shore transect at 7, 4 and 2 meters deep. On the Wan-tzu-liao sand barrier, 3 columns of 3 pressiometers are deployed to survey the submersion. In the same time, morphological surveys are performed on the sand barrier with DGPS to analyse any change in the shoreline position, the beach slope, and the dynamics of sand beach features. A very preliminary analysis on these on-going field surveys suggests that the word "extreme" refers more to the consequence of the forcing on the sand barrier than the intensity of the forcing itself. The strategy developed in this first step will be refined to survey the next typhoon season, from May 2012 to October 2012.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854411
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854411
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.034-M

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
Island barriers are common features along the world coastlines. They have a crucial role in protecting inland and rich lagoonal ecosystems. Erosion and sand transfers on these island barriers during extreme events such as tropical storms or typhoons remain poorly investigated. This work focuses on a multi-scales nalysis (season to decade) of the morphodynamics of Wan-Tzu-Liao sand barrier subjected to extreme waves and sea surges. We combine topographic measurements of the emerged beach at seasonal scale between 2011 to 2012 and long-term (1993-2009) shoreline changes using aerial photographs and satellite images. At the seasonal scale, during Monsoon, the sand was taken from the beach-front and transported seaward outside the study area. During typhoons season, 12 typhoons drove a beach recovery process resulting in a seaward shoreline shift. This annual behavior is discussed in term of roll-over process of the barrier. At the decadal scale, the shoreline changes evidence cross-shore processes in the north part of the barrier and longshore processes in the south. Although the chronic landward migration displays several stages, the strong losses of the barrier area occurs only since 2004 and call into question the general concept of conservation of mass during the roll-over of a barrier.
Revue Paralia, XIIIème Journées Nationales Génie CIvil Génie Côtier
Dunkerque, France

hal-01018203
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01018203

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically shearedcurrent and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic fieldcampaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season.The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and byco-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of fieldobservations shown seaward directed circulation with onshore component close to the air/sea surface whose intensityvaries according to incoming wave conditions. Forth, vertical shear increase when breaking happen close to sensorlocation and orientation of mean circulation depend on wind direction.
35th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Antalya, Turkey

hal-01426582
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426582

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
The Maguelone shore extends along the northern coast of the Gulf of Lions, west of the Rhone Delta and east of high-gradient coastal streams that have provided most of the clastic sediments to the Gulf of Lions margin since the early Miocene. This 10 km-wide area is constituted by a small coastal watershed (15 km long) in low-lying carbonate hills, a kilometre-wide marsh, a sandy beach barrier and a shoreface experiencing local low sedimentation rates. This onshore-offshore transition zone is a key area to understand the relationships between erosion, by-pass, deposition and preservation processes. Unlike the neighbouring Rhone deposits that display numerous thick deltaic sequences related to a continuous sediment flux, the Maguelone shore exhibits peculiar sedimentary bodies. The analysis of about 250 km of new VHR seismic profiles acquired over the study area, 9 short cores and outcrops data allowed us to determine the three-dimensional high-resolution geometry of the coastal system tracts from Quaternary to present-day. This revealed dominant denudation processes in the Upstream catchments associated with the formation of incised valleys during Quaternary lowstands. In addition, this study investigates the erosion and deposition mechanisms controlled by littoral hydrodynamics that have been taken place on this shore since the last transgression. In particular, metre-high and hundreds of metre-long sandy bodies constructed by alongshore hydrodynamics were identified and their effect on the morphodynamics of the whole littoral system is discussed. The Maguelone shore can be used as an experimental study for onshore/offshore dynamics under the influence of microtidal wave/current hydrodynamics and very low river-derived sediment flux during a eustatic cycle. Geometry of system tracts across flood plain to shoreface is usually considered to be controlled by relative sea-level changes, and is successfully analysed with 2D sequence stratigraphy cross-shore models. It is observed that in areas like the Maguelone shore, traditional sequence stratigraphy methods might not be fully relevant and need to integrate alongshore hydrodynamical processes.
ISSN: 0025-3227

hal-00421060
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00421060
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2009.06.008