Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation, Inc.
Résumé : International audience
Morphodynamics of sandy, macrotidal, embayed beaches is complex because of the numerous physical processes interacting at the same location over a wide range of temporal scales. As most of these processes are controlled by beach morphology, dynamic feedbacks are generally observed between hydro- and morphodynamics. Investigating short-term processes is essential in order to improve long term morphological prediction. A key question is to understand how beach slope reacts to forcing conditions, in particular the response time of the beach profile, how long the transient state lasts. This study deals with the spatial and temporal responses of beach morphology to varying incident conditions. Here we report main observations, preliminary results and on-going investigations on the DYNATREZ1 field campaign, which was conducted in the framework of the National Observation Service Dynalit. Beach profiles are shown to adapt rapidly to forcing conditions, within two days, with more intense variations observed in the high tide swash zone. The presence of infragravity waves and their dissipation on the beach is highlighted. It is likely that the very large variability in beach slope observed over a single neapspring cycle is responsible for the accordingly large variability in wave skewness, asymmetry and breaking processes, and thus in sediment fluxes and morphological changes.
ICS 2016 Sydney
Sydney, Australia

hal-01254465
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01254465
DOI : 10.2112/SI75-075.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
Journées Nationales Génie Côtier – Génie Civil, Dunkerque, 2-4 Juillet 2014

hal-01426583
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426583

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
American Geophysical Union, Fall Meeting 2013
Unknown, United States

hal-01426587
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426587

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The south part nearshore zone of the Gulf of Lions coast (Mediterranean Sea) is characterized by a double crescentic sandbar system. During the winter 2007, a campaign of intensive hydrodynamical measurements (current profiles) was realized. During this campaign, based mainly on ADCPs, the maximal recorded wave height was 1.5 m. Four events were observed; two of those had northern incidence, one with southern incidence and a last one with frontal incidence. This paper proposes 3D hydrodynamical circulation maps over this microtidal bar system. The currents described reveals rip, bed-return and longshore currents strongly influenced by the wind-waves forcing and the bathymetry. At the apex of the oblique incidence events, the longshore component is the most important. The breaker zone is only located over the inner bar. During storm waning conditions, the cross-shore currents appear over the trough of the outer bar. The hydrodynamic circulation is then compared with other observations made in the literature.
ISSN: 0749-0208
Szczecin, Poland

hal-00767593
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00767593

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : Quasi-3D model SHORECIRC simulates circulation on simple nearshore domains. It is modified in order to handle realistic bathymetries : beaches with complex shoreline and/or emerged structures. Added improvements are validated against other models and measurements on various configurations. New SHORECIRC version is then applied to the study of the circulation dynamics of Leucate, a sandy beach of Languedoc- Roussillon (France) with crescentic bars.
Le modèle numérique de circulation quasi-tridimensionnel SHORECIRC, initialement prévu pour fonctionner sur des bathymétries simples, a été modifié afin de pouvoir prendre en compte les caractéristiques complexes des bathymétries réalistes de la zone littorale : trait de côte irrégulier et présence d'objets émergés. Les modifications apportées ont ´été validées par comparaison avec des résultats d'autres modèles numériques et avec des données mesurées sur plusieurs configurations. Enfin, le modèle modifié a été appliqué à l'étude de la dynamique de la circulation sur une plage sableuse à barres en festons (Plage de Leucate, Languedoc-Roussillon, FR).
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713

tel-00438713
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713/document
https://tel.archives-ouvertes.fr/tel-00438713/file/thesebujan.pdf

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : Le lido de Villeneuve-lès-Maguelone (Languedoc-Roussillon) est un archétype de littoral microtidal, dominé par la houle, en érosion, et largement affecté par la submersion marine lors des tempêtes. Les observations réalisées dans le cadre du Système d'Observation Littoral - Trait de Côte (SO LTC) concernent l'hydrodynamique et le transport sédimentaire dans l'avant-côte et la lagune. La tache d'observation MAGOBS (Observatoire Aresquiers-Maguelone-Palavas) de cet observatoire regroupe un dispositif instrumental automatisé composé de 30 points d'acquisition en temps réel entre 6 mètres de profondeur et le haut de plage (à terre) ainsi que dans la lagune. Le dispositif est opérationnel depuis mai 2011. Son déploiement a permis de déverrouiller les difficultés techniques liées à la mesure temps réel en zone littorale : choix du type des appareils de mesure, de la technologie embarquée, des cadences d'acquisition, résolution des questions du transfert de la donnée. Le dispositif produit 2 Tera-octets de données par an. Les données sont stockées sur un ensemble de serveurs dédiés. Les données sont mises en ligne sur le site du SO-LTC (www.soltc.org), immédiatement après premiers traitements et qualification. Elles commencent à être utilisées pour des calculs de niveau d'eau à la côte, et dansdes outils de prédiction des vagues et des niveaux à la côte associant mesure et modélisation.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854410
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854410
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.064-G

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This communication reports on a field experiment carried out on a microtidal beach in Camargue, France. The analysis is built on the initial work presented by Sous et al. (2016) on swash-groundwater dynamics. The analysis of a cross-shore network of buried pressure sensors allows to monitor the watertable dynamics over the full 2013-2014 winter season. The pressure head gradients are observed to be primarily seaward, forced by a higher level at the landward boundary. The groundwater flux is driven by the relative fluctuations of Still Water Level and inland elevations. Rain and tides have a little effect. A nearly isolated groundwater circulation is driven by wave activity below the swash zone whatever the overall watertable gradient. Estimations of beach groundwater discharge over the Gulf of Beauduc reveal the importance of beach groundwater in the exchanges between coastal aquifer and open sea.
Coastal Dynamics 2017
Helsingor, Denmark

hal-01562908
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562908

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
ISSN: 0378-3839

hal-00385746
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00385746

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : National audience
Le littoral, caractérisé par une grande diversitéd’environnements (plages sableuses ou rocheuses, cordonsdunaires, falaises, lagunes, estuaires...) est une zone très mobile etévolutive du fait de forçages hydrodynamiques et météorologiquessouvent intenses. Cet environnement est fragile, car soumis àl’impact d’activités humaines qui ne cessent d’augmenter (urbanisation,aménagements...), mais aussi aux effets du changementclimatique (élévation du niveau de la mer, modification durégime de houles, inondations). Comprendre le fonctionnementhydromorpho-sédimentaire des environnements littoraux est crucialpour prédire leur évolution et celle des écosystèmes associés.Le Service National d’Observation labellisé par le CNRS, (SNO)DYNALIT, - Dynamique du Littoral et du Trait de Côte a pourbut de constituer une base de données hydromorphologiques sur lelong terme de 29 sites ateliers représentatifs des environnementslittoraux français (côtes sableuses, falaises et embouchures) afin :- De mesurer la cinématique de ces environnements et du trait decôte associé ;- De mieux comprendre les interactions entre les processushydrodynamiques-transport sédimentaires-réponse morphologiqueassociés à la dynamique du littoral ;- Utiliser les observations pour améliorer notre connaissance desréponses de la morphologie des littoraux dans différents contextesde forçages météo-marins ;- D’utiliser ces observations pour analyser l’importance relativedes facteurs anthropiques et naturels sur la dynamique littorale ;- De se positionner en interlocuteur pour les responsables de ladéfinition et la mise en oeuvre des politiques de gestion des risqueslittoraux.
RST 2016, livre des résumés
Caen, France

insu-01387873
https://hal-insu.archives-ouvertes.fr/insu-01387873

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This communication reports on a field experiments carried out on the Ouano reef barrier, New Caledonia. The analysis is based on a cross-shore network of pressure sensors deployed across the reef flat and within the lagoon. Confirming existing observations, the measurements show the strong filtering role of the reef barrier on the incoming wave energy The swell energy is dissipated and transferred toward lower frequencies, including the so-called infragravity (IG) and very low frequency (VLF) waves. During energetic event (Hs=4.2m), IG and VLF significant wave heights on the reef flat are observed to reach 1.2 and 0.7m, respectively. A variety of long waves modes are observed on the reef, combining standing and progressive-dissipative modes. In any cases, the VLF and IG waves are much more developed over and close to the reef flat than further inside the lagoon.
Coastal Dynamics 2017
Helsingor, Denmark

hal-01562927
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01562927

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
This work aims to better understand the physical processes governing the wave propagation in a vertically shearedcurrent and the resulting nearshore circulation patterns. It is based on a high resolution hydro-morphodynamic fieldcampaign, ROUSTY2014, collecting a comprehensive hydro-morphodynamical dataset during a full winter season.The overall analysis highlights three main circulation patterns, largely controled by the bathymetric features and byco-working or competing wind and waves forcings. Regarding the vertical structuration of the circulation, most of fieldobservations shown seaward directed circulation with onshore component close to the air/sea surface whose intensityvaries according to incoming wave conditions. Forth, vertical shear increase when breaking happen close to sensorlocation and orientation of mean circulation depend on wind direction.
35th International Conference on Coastal Engineering
Antalya, Turkey

hal-01426582
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426582

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Editions Paralia CFL
Résumé : The wave-dominated beach barrier of Villeneuve-Lès-Maguelone extends between Palavas and Frontignan (Gul f of Lions, northernmost Me diterranean Sea), along a slightly natural sandy protected area char acterized by typical and well-expressed morphologies. In the nearshore, the sea bottom shows one or two approximately rectilinear sand bars. In 2010-2011, we pe rformed a 6 month-long monitoring (autumn 2010/late spring 2011) of a 500 meter-long se gment along this sand barrier. We used RTK D-GPS offering centimeter resolution to acquire sets of elevation data on the beach and the upper shoreface. The study is innovative because a full morphologic monitoring was performed each time the wave/ wind conditions changed significantly. These changes were tracked in real-time thanks to a set of hydrodynamic equipments deployed at sea, including well-known DREAL buoys. We identify from well- documented data: (1) a beach reconstruction cycle at the shorelin e after a moderate storm event (wave height at 3-4 m) and (2) how a sand bar in the nearshore migrates to the shoreline and drives the shoreline shift.
ISSN: 1760-8716

hal-00854402
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00854402
DOI : 10.5150/jngcgc.2012.023-C

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Blackwell Publishing
Résumé : International audience
Differentiating between forced regressive deposits from deglacial periods inhigh latitude domains and forced regressive deposits from the onset of glacialperiods in low latitude domains is fundamental for the accurate interpretationof glacial cycles within the geological record and then for thereconstruction of palaeogeography and palaeo-climate. A forced regressivedeglacial sequence is documented from the Lake Saint-Jean basin (Quebec,Canada). In this area, the Late Pleistocene to Holocene sediments haverecorded the Laurentide ice sheet retreat accompanied by the invasion ofmarine waters (Laflamme Gulf) from ca 129 cal kyr BP. Subsequently, fluviodeltaicand coastal prograding wedges were deposited; they followed thebase-level fall due to glacio-isostatic rebound. This succession, representinga transition from glacial to post-glacial periods within a previously glaciatedarea, was investigated through recent mapping, preserved landforms, faciesanalysis, and new optical stimulated luminescence and radiocarbon dates.Three basin-scale geological sections share a common lower part made ofisolated ice-contact fan deposits overlying bedrock. Throughout the entirebasin, ice-contact fans are capped by glacimarine muds. Above, fluvial andcoastal prograding systems were deposited and evolved through four steps:(i) deltaic systems progressively increased in width; (ii) coastal influence onsedimentation increased; (iii) hydrographic drainage systems became moreorganised; and (iv) deltas graded from steep (Gilbert delta) to low-angle foresets(mouth-bar delta). Deposited during the base-level fall from glacioisostaticrebound, the complete succession has been designated as a singlefalling stage system tract referred to as a deglacial falling stage system tract.It is representative of a deglaciation sequence in areas previously covered byice during glacial periods (i.e. medium to high latitude domains). Diagnosticcriteria are provided to identify such a deglacial falling stage system tract inthe geological record, which may aid identification of previously unknownglacial cycles.
ISSN: 1469-3496

insu-01184731
https://hal-insu.archives-ouvertes.fr/insu-01184731
DOI : 10.1111/sed.12196

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : Finding records of past catastrophic storm events is essential to evaluate the long term climatic evolution in a given coastal area. This question has been addressed by the study of sediment cores sampled in a small coastal lagoon of the French Mediterranean coast (Pierre Blanche lagoon). Two cores were studied in detail and revealed the presence of three main storm events. The sedimentation rates calculated using the CFCS Pb-210 model, in agreement with Cs-137 data, are 3 +/- 0.4 and 4.2 +/- 0.7 mm y(-1) near the border and in the center of the lagoon respectively. This suggests that the 0.6 m deep lagoon could be filled with sediments over the next 150 yr. Our study shows that storm events can be characterized in sedimentary sequences identified by facies, grain size and faunal assemblages (lagoonal and marine species). Comparison of Pb-210, C-14 chronology and historical accounts suggest that the three identified storm events took place in 1742, 1839 and 1893 A.D. (i.e. about one catastrophic event per century).
ISSN: 0025-3227

hal-00411189
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-00411189
DOI : 10.1016/j.margeo.2008.03.001

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
Yearly monitoring in one of the most affected coastal zones by the Prestige oil spill, namely Nemiña and O Rostro beaches (NW Spain), has been carried out since 2004. Topographic data of beaches revealed seasonal altimetric changes up to 4 m that would prevent the on shore persistence of oil. However, surficial and subsurficial oil was detected in the intertidal area of both beaches in all campaigns. The hydrocarbon analysis confirmed that this oil corresponded to the Prestige oil, even nine years after the accident. Tar balls were highly biodegraded suggesting that the oil was accumulated on the subtidal sediments for a long time and transported to the coast by the action of waves. The present work provides new evidence of the long term persistence of deep oil spills from wrecks in marine areas where the hydrodynamic conditions play a twofold key role, in determining the exposed coastal area to recurrent contamination and in burying and resurfacing the oil in the intertidal zone.
ISSN: 0304-3894

hal-01071707
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01071707
DOI : 10.1016/j.jhazmat.2013.01.057

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Coastal Education and Research Foundation
Résumé : The present work concerns cuspate spits: slightly symmetrical geomorphic features growing along the shoreline in shallow waters. We develop a new formulation for the dynamics of cuspate spits. Our approach relies on classical paradigms such as a conservation law to the shoreface scale and an explicit formula for alongshore sediment transport. We derive a non-linear diffusion equation and a fully explicit solution for the growth of cuspate spits. From this general expression, we found interesting applications to quantify shoreline dynamics in the presence of cuspate spits. In particular, we point out a simple method for the datation of a cuspate spit given a limited number of input parameters. Furthermore, we develop a method to quantify the mean alongshore diffusivity along a shoreline perturbed by well-defined cuspate spits of known sizes. Finally, we introduce a formal relationship between the geometric characteristics (amplitude, length) of cuspate spits, which reproduce the self-similarity of these geomorphic features.
ISSN: 0749-0208

hal-01234952
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01234952
DOI : 10.2112/SI70-009.1

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Wiley
Résumé : International audience
Most of the Mediterranean coastal porous aquifers are intensively exploited. Because of climatic and anthropogenic effects, understanding the physical and geological controls on groundwater distribution and flow dynamics in such aquifers is crucial. This study presents the results of a structural investigation of a system located along the coastline of the Gulf of Lions (NW Mediterranean). A key aspect of this study relies on an onshore-offshore integrated approach combining outcrops, seismic profiles, and borehole data analysis. This multidisciplinary approach provides constraints on pore-fluid salinity distribution and stratigraphic organization, which are crucial in assessing the modes of groundwater/seawater exchanges. Onshore, Lower Pliocene deposits dip gently seaward. They are unconformably overlain by Holocene clays in the lagoons. Offshore the Pliocene deposits either outcrop at the seabed or are buried below nonconsolidated sands infilling paleo-valleys. Beneath the lido, the groundwater salinity distribution consists of salty pore water, overlying fresher pore water. Active circulation of groundwater masses is inferred from the geophysical results. In particular, offshore outcrops and paleo-valleys may play an important role in salt water intrusion.
ISSN: 0017-467X

halsde-00866825
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/halsde-00866825
DOI : 10.1111/j.1745-6584.2012.01011.x

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Elsevier
Résumé : International audience
We show how to introduce the Value at Risk (VaR) concept in the analysis of the adaptation of the shape of a soft bed to a flow knowing the Probability Density Function (PDF) of the responses of the shape to flow perturbations (bed receptivity). Our aim is to quantify our confidence on simulation scenarios by an available morphodynamic model for the shape. The approach permits to perform this task at low complexity as it does not require any sampling of the bed receptivity parameter space. The paper goes beyond stationarity for the variability of the bed receptivity by linking its dynamics to the bottom morphodynamics through an original transport equation for the local bed receptivity standard deviation. The approach has been applied to the analysis of bed morphodynamics based on minimization principles. The results show the importance of including uncertainty information during the coupling and not only eventually through simple margins on the results.
ISSN: 0045-7930

hal-01054937
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01054937
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01054937/document
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01054937/file/paper_var_litto.pdf
DOI : 10.1016/j.compfluid.2013.10.021

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD
Résumé : International audience
o abstract
Coastal Engineering Proceedings

hal-01426586
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01426586

Éditeur(s) : HAL CCSD Société Française de Photogrammétrie et de Télédétection
Résumé : International audience
ISSN: 1768-9791

hal-01098021
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01098021